Baer Brakes - Big Brake Kits

For 43 years Baer Brakes has participated in every type of racing and performance activity. Thru Racing, Baer Brakes first recognized the need for improvements ...

Baer Brakes are known worldwide for superior braking performance and outstanding quality. Baer offers everything from replacement brake rotors & brake pads ...

Baer Disc Brake Systems is an industry-leading manufacturer of brake systems which deliver next-level stopping power for all of your safe ...

When it comes to performance brakes, the industry's top choice is the Baer line of products. Racers and enthusiasts alike choose this Arizona-based brand for its ...

When it comes to performance brakes, the industry’s top choice is the Baer line of products. Racers and enthusiasts alike choose this Arizona-based brand for its high level of craftsmanship and product quality. For over 43 years, this company has provided the most innovative brake products that are perfect for street performance vehicles. Recognizing the importance of precise and accurate brakes, this manufacturer ensures that every unit has been finely tuned and specially engineered to provide a long-term service life and lasting performance. With this, the company has not stopped in its quest of continuously upgrading its offerings together with the technology used in manufacturing. By using the latest CAD and CNC machining technologies, Baer has been capable of producing specialized brake systems without charging customers a rate that’s worth and arm and a leg. Every brake system produced by this company uses intricately machined components: callipers that have been forged out of aluminum, curved vane rotors, pistons made of steel, and high-grade hardware that includes nuts and bolts that are easy to use. The only challenge is to choose the right brake system for your ride’s application. Baer’s SS4+ systems are the usual choice for small vehicles, while track 4 is applied on trucks with massive wheels. What’s more, because of their special designs, Baer’s replacement units continue to dominate the market as well; the decelerator front brake disc possess a cross-drilled and slotted design that ensure a higher level of durability, while Baer’s Eradispeed-Plus-1 brake disc are coated with zinc to prevent easy corrosion.

Get your Baer parts today! You can start shopping simply by filling your virtual shopping cart with your needed components and add-ons. Premium parts are sold right here at Auto Parts Warehouse, an online auto parts store that’s dedicated to providing high-quality replacements and accessories with a low price guarantee to ensure that customers get the best value out of their hard-earned money. Whether you are in need of a more efficient brake system, a light bulb to illuminate dark roads, a new radiator to ensure proper cooling, or a more efficient fuel injector to improve fuel economy, we are there to help you out. Our wide inventory of products will definitely be able to cater to your every need. Check out Auto Parts Warehouse’s product inventory by looking through our online catalog. You can search by typing in the year, make, and model of the vehicle, the name of the part, or a specific brand and part, such as Baer performance brakes. And there’s more. We provide a hassle-free shopping experience for customers through our secure and flexible payment gateways, quick order processing, and reliable international shipping service. So if you’re looking to upgrade, restore, repair, or simply maintain your auto, head straight to Auto Parts Warehouse. Should you have questions or concerns about our products and services, don’t hesitate to pick up the phone and dial our toll-free hotline number. Our customer service representatives are available 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to help you out.

Baer Brake Disc Kit

When you buy a Baer brakes kit, you are purchasing the result of years of focus specifically on brakes. Baer Racing, Inc., is a name known in the racing world and by the top automotive manufacturers for quality braking systems and the superior performance of the Baer brakes kit clearly demonstrates that firm focus on brakes. A Baer brakes kit is designed to be a simple install, and there is no welding involved. In addition to a simple bolt on installation and fine performance, a Baer brakes kit also comes with a durability and dependability that can be counted on. The Baer brakes kit is available for numerous makes and models of vehicles, and the odds are that we carry just the right Baer brakes kit for your specific vehicle.

Baer Brake Pad Set

Since 1986, Baer brakes systems have been providing superior and dependable performance. Like many of the companies known for high performance parts, Baer Racing, Inc., proved their Baer brakes systems on the race course, winning numerous awards. In addition to enjoying the proven performance of their Baer brakes systems on the race track, Baer Racing, Inc., has worked with the top names in the automotive manufacturing world, contributing the knowledge used in the design of Baer brakes system to helping to improve stock factory braking systems. Today, Baer brakes systems are available for street use on a broad range of makes and models of vehicles. Designed with simple installation in mind, Baer brakes systems are an excellent choice in terms of quality, performance and convenience.

Baer Performance Brake Kit

In addition to complete breaking systems and brake kits, Baer Racing, Inc., also makes available a variety of individual brake parts, including their Baer brake discs. Like each and every braking system, kit or individual part that carries the Baer name, Baer brake discs can be counted on to provide a high level of performance and safety reliably for many miles. The quality inherent in Baer brake discs is a direct result of the company's devotion to just brakes and their use of only high-grade materials in the manufacture of their brake parts and systems, including Baer brake discs. Dependable brakes are an essential part of automotive safety, and you and your vehicle deserve the best, which should make Baer brake discs your first choice.

Baer Performance Brake Kit

Baer brake rotors are a smart decision when it comes to replacing your rotors. Designed to look just as sharp as they perform, Baer brake rotors are available for a variety of makes and models of vehicles. The premium, high performance Baer brake rotors are built to significantly outperform the rotors that come factory installed on your vehicle. Part of the high performance of these Baer brake rotors has to do with an innovative design that is meant to offer greater airflow and heat dissipation. The zinc-coated surface is pleasing to the eye, as is the slotting and drilling of the high performance Baer brake rotors. Just important as high performance and good looks, however, is the durability that is built into Baer brake rotors ? and you can count on that.

aftermarket brakes-BREMBO: QUALITY FOR THE AFTERMARKET

BREMBO: QUALITY FOR THE AFTERMARKET

Brembo now offers the quality and performance of the world's leading braking system manufacturer to all models of car. The cutting-edge technology and vast experience of a company that manufactures braking systems for the world's major automotive constructors, combined with absolute control in every stage of the production process, allow Brembo to offer the Aftermarket professional a more comprehensive and reliable range of spare parts that covers over 96% of all vehicles on the road today.

Brembo brake pads are the new benchmark for performance, durability and reliability, and also offer unparalleled braking comfort. Brembo's range of brake discs and drums is unrivalled in terms of both size and innovation. Brembo rear wheel kits provide all the components necessary for drum brake maintenance. On top of this is a complete range of hydraulic components engineered for absolute reliability.

But Brembo also stands for consistent quality in every component and a comprehensive aftersales service. A choice that is up to any challenge, for any car.

A comprehensive range of aftermarket products makes Brembo technology accessible to every workshop.

Brembo Aftermarket offers a suite of services to support all professionals in the sector.

bedded-in brake pads

All brake pads must be bedded-in with the rotor they will be used against to maximize brake performance. The bedding-in process involves a gradual build up of heat in the rotors and pad compound. This process will lay down a thin layer of transfer film on to the rotor surface. Following the bed-in procedures provided by the manufacturer will assure a smooth, even layer of transfer film on the rotor and will minimize brake judder. Here are a few things to keep in mind when installing new rotors and pads:

When installing new pads, the rotors should be new or at least resurfaced to remove any transfer film from the previous set of brake pads.

It is critical that the installer clean any rust, scale, or debris from the hub mounting surface thoroughly and check it for excessive run-out with a dial indicator gauge before installing the rotor.

The new rotor should also be checked for excessive run-out using a dial indicator gauge before the caliper and pads are installed. If a rotor has excessive run-out of over .004" (.10mm) it should be replaced.

If your new rotor has excessive run-out, please contact our customer service department for a replacement rotor. Do not install and drive using the rotor! Rotor manufacturers will not warranty a used rotor for excessive run-out. Running with excessive run-out on the hub or rotor will cause vibration issues.

Failure to follow these procedures may result in brake judder, excessive noise, or other difficulties in bedding-in the new brake pads. The pads need a fresh surface to lay down an even transfer film. Residue from the previous pad compound on the surface or an irregular surface on a used rotor will cause the pads to grip-slip-grip-slip as they pass over the rotor surface under pressure. The resulting vibration will cause noise and telegraph vibrations through the suspension and steering wheel. This vibration is known as brake judder or brake shimmy. This is typically caused by an uneven transfer film on the rotor surface or an uneven surface on the rotor not allowing that transfer film to develop evenly. This is often misdiagnosed as a warped rotor.

Bedding-in new pads and rotors should be done carefully and slowly. Rapid heat build up in the brake system can lead to warped rotors and or glazed brake pads. Most brake pad compounds will take up to 300-400 miles to fully develop an even transfer film on the rotors. Following are the recommended bed-in procedures from each manufacturer:

AKEBONO

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

ATE

400 to 500 miles of moderate driving is recommended. Consumer should avoid heavy braking during this period.

BREMBO Gran Turismo

In a safe area, apply brakes moderately from 60mph to 30mph and then drive approximately 1/2 mile to allow the brakes to cool. Repeat this procedure approximately 30 times.

HAWK

After installing new pads make 6 to 10 stops from approximately 35 mph with moderate pressure. Make an additional two to three hard stops from approximately 40 to 45 mph. Do not allow the vehicle to come to a complete stop.When completed with this process, park the vehicle and allow the brakes to cool completely before driving on them again. Do not engage the parking brake until after this cooling process is compete.

NOTE: Hawk racing pads (Blue, Black, HT-10, HT-12) may require a different bed-in procedure. Contact your sales specialists at the Tire Rack for racing application information.

POWER SLOT

Follow the brake pad manufacturer's recommended break-in procedure taking care not to produce excessive heat in the system. Avoid heavy braking for the first 400-500 miles.

Why Ceramic Brake Pads?

We want our vehicle's brake system to offer smooth, quiet braking capabilities under a wide range of temperature and road conditions. We don't want brake-generated noise and dust annoying us during our daily driving.

To accommodate this, brake friction materials have evolved significantly over the years. They've gone from asbestos to organic to semi-metallic formulations. Each of these materials has proven to have advantages and disadvantages regarding environmental friendliness, wear, noise and stopping capability.

Asbestos pads caused health issues and organic compounds can't always meet a wide range of braking requirements. Unfortunately the steel strands used in semi-metallic pads to provide strength and conduct heat away from rotors also generate noise and are abrasive enough to increase rotor wear.

Since they were first used on a few original equipment applications in 1985, friction materials that contain ceramic formulations have become recognized for their desirable blend of traits. These pads use ceramic compounds and copper fibers in place of the semi-metallic pad's steel fibers. This allows the ceramic pads to handle high brake temperatures with less heat fade, provide faster recovery after the stop, and generate less dust and wear on both the pads and rotors. And from a comfort standpoint, ceramic compounds provide much quieter braking because the ceramic compound helps dampen noise by generating a frequency beyond the human hearing range.

Another characteristic that makes ceramic materials attractive is the absence of noticeable dust. All brake pads produce dust as they wear. The ingredients in ceramic compounds produce a light-colored dust that is much less noticeable and less likely to stick to the wheels. Consequently, wheels and tires maintain a cleaner appearance longer.

Ceramic pads meet or exceed all original equipment standards for durability, stopping distance and noise. According to durability tests, ceramic compounds extend brake life compared to most other semi-metallic and organic materials and outlast other premium pad materials by a significant margin - with no sacrifice in noise control, pad life or braking performance.

This is quite an improvement over organic and semi-metallic brake materials that typically sacrifice pad life to reduce noise, or vice versa.

Ceramic brake pads are available at a cost that is only a little higher than conventional premium pads. Options are listed when you search by vehicle (shown as "Material: Ceramic" in search results).

Remanufactured with brand new components Vehicle brake caliper

FLOATING CALIPER DESIGNS

Floating calipers can fail from sticking that can occur from dirt or corrosion if the vehicle is not operated regularly.

Causes the pad attached to the caliper to rub on the rotor when the brake is released.

Reduces fuel efficiency and cause excessive wear on the affected pad.

Additional heat generated can lead to warping of the rotor also.

ALL CALIPERS

All calipers are susceptible to internal breakdown of the rubber seals or phenolic pistons. This cannot visibly be seen and is only detected when leaking occurs.

Heat generated in the braking system will eventually break down the rubber seals.

Severely worn friction can also cause the piston to overextend and the seal to leak.

The brake caliper is the assembly which houses the brake pads and pistons. The pistons are usually made of aluminum, chrome plated steel, or from a composite material called phenolic. There are two types of calipers: floating or fixed.

CALIPER ADVANTAGE

Remanufactured with brand new components that meet or exceed original equipment manufacturer specifications

100% factory tested

Include 100% new boots, seals, phenolic pistons (if required) and bleeder screws

Include factory installed hardware

How long do brake pads last?

The lifespan of a given set of brake pads is dependent on a very wide set of variables ranging from personal driving style to the impersonal laws of physics. Mechanics and manufacturers have a loosely agreed upon mileage range from around 30,000 to 70,000 miles (48,280 to 112,654 kilometers), but stories of pads lasting a mere 100 miles (160.9 kilometers) to an astounding 100,000 miles (160,934 kilometers) abound.

These far-ranging numbers are understandable. Pads come in an array of types and compositions -- from composite to metallic to ceramic -- and are attached to an even more bewildering array of brake systems and rotors, all of which affect the life of the pad. Added to the mix are heat, pressure and friction in amounts that would astound most drivers. Indeed the brakes, especially the pads, are some of the hardest working components in your car.

For the purpose of this article we'll deal solely with brake pads, meaning the pads used in caliper brakes rather than drum brakes. The pads used in drum brakes are referred to as "shoes." They serve the same purpose and are often constructed of the same or similar material, but they function in a slightly different way.

Let's begin addressing the longevity question by looking at what brake pads are made of, or their frictional material. Pads generally come in four types: organic, semimetallic, metallic, and synthetic. Each of these types has their own characteristics that must be weighed against brake pad life:

Organic: Made from non-metallic fibers bonded into a composite material. The material is then treated with friction modifiers including graphite, powdered metals and even nutshells. Fillers are added to reduce noise and to affect heat transfer, among other factors.

Semimetallic: This pad is a mix of organic material and metals -- ranging from steel and iron to copper -- molded and bonded to form the pad. These pads are harder and more resistant to heat.

Metallic: This material, formed of a variety and mix of pressure bonded metals, was once used extensively in racing. Advances in organic and semimetallic pad composition have made metallic pads almost obsolete.

Synthetic: This is what is often referred to as ceramic pads. These pads are made from a composite of non-organic and nonmetallic material, usually fiberglass and aramid fibers. These pads weigh about half the weight of the average pad, they are stronger, have better cold and hot stopping power and they last much longer than the average pad. They also cost about twice as much.

For the pad materials above, the best stopping power is found in the organic pads. But this same stopping power means more of the pad material is worn away during a stop. Because of this, organic pads last the least amount of time on average. Semimetallic pads, the pads that are now on most cars, are harder and last longer but they don't stop as effectively as organic pads do. The same goes for ceramic pads, though these pads do often last longer if the driver is willing to pay the price and have a slightly longer stopping distance.

And as pads are all about stopping it's time to take a look at mass. The reality of mass or specifically stopping a given mass -- like a car -- brings us to the physics behind pad wear.

The Physics of Brake Pads

At its most basic, a brake system converts the kinetic energy of a car into heat energy through friction devices -- namely the pads. How much kinetic energy is at work in a car is determined by its weight (I use this interchangeably with mass thought the two are not exactly the same), its speed and how much the speed changes. From a physics standpoint, kinetic energy is calculated by multiplying the weight of the car times the square of its speed. The product is then divided by 29.9 and the result is the amount of kinetic energy in foot-pounds.

A more practical application is this: Two cars are traveling at 30 miles per hour (48.3 kilometers per hour). One weighs 2,000 pounds (907.2 kilograms), the other 4,000 pounds (1,814 kilograms). The lighter car is generating 60,200 foot-pounds (81,620 newton-meters) of kinetic energy, the heavier car is generating 120,400 foot-pounds (163,240 newton-meters) of kinetic energy.

Our theoretical car is traveling and generating torque and essentially nothing is happening until the driver steps on the brake. Then a whole bunch of things happen. The brakes must overcome dynamic inertia (the car in motion) and impose static inertia (make the car come to a stop). It does this by changing the kinetic energy to thermal energy or heat -- and it generates a lot. The pads on the smaller car going 60 miles per hour (96.6 kilometers per hour) will reach about 450 degrees Fahrenheit (232.2 degrees Celsius) during an emergency stop. This, of course, can affect the life of the pad. Or, more simply put, every time a driver stops, or rides the brakes, the pads wear down, heat up and die just a little bit.

The final portion of this long equation on pad life has nothing to do with the pads directly. Remember, the pads must press against a rotor to slow the car. This is accomplished using a set of calipers, and the pads are pressed against a rotor.

A rotor may look like a simple piece of metal but it's designed very specifically to work with the calipers and pads. The mass of the rotor, as well as built-in heat fins, help dissipate some of the heat energy developed during braking and extend pad life. The surface also has a specific finish that is smooth enough to extend the life of the pad, but rough enough to allow effective braking.

Similarly, the calipers must work to correctly apply the piston and press the pads when needed, and release when not needed, too. A stuck or sticking caliper can mean a pad is in constant or too-frequent pressurized contact with a rotor. This increases the heat energy and premature wearing away of the pad.

The variables in a brake pad's life are so wide that setting a specific lifespan is almost impossible -- although 30,000 to 50,000 miles (48,280 to 80,467 kilometers) for semimetallic pads is a good guesstimate. Even the type of transmission a car has can affect pad life. Manual transmission drivers who know how to shift to control speed will see longer brake life than automatic transmission drivers. On the other end of the spectrum, people who ride the brakes, or brake very hard, often see their pad life halved when a simple shift in driving style could save them money.

Given this variety, the best way to handle pad life is to have them checked during routine oil changes. A set of brake pad gauges can be used to measure wear, and a good shop can tell you how much friction material you have left on the pad and how long they should last. Many pads have audible indicators as well. A small piece of metal, usually a spring clip, attached to one of the pads. When the pad wears down, the clips rub against the rotor and make a squealing noise.

Regardless of how long typical brake pads may last, always pay attention to the signs of brakes going bad -- fading power, loss of power when the brakes get hot, or pulling to one side or another during braking. All of these signs are an indication of brake pads going bad, and brakes are critical to a car's good operation.

For more information about brake pads and other related topics, follow the links on the next page.

brake mechanic Brakes & Brake Repair

Do you need more runway than a 747 to stop your car? If you answered yes it's time to have your brakes inspected at your neighborhood Midas.

From the brake pedal to hydraulic brake fluid, brake master cylinder to power brake booster, drum brakes to disc brakes and electronic anti-lock brake sensors, Midas technicians know every part of your brake system inside and out and can perform brake repair on any make and model.

No wonder Midas is one of North America’s brake service leaders.- With locations throughout the US and Canada, you can be confident we’ll always be there when you need us.

You know you need brake repair when:

the brake dashboard light glows amber, indicating problems with the anti-lock brake system (ABS)

the brake dashboard light is red, indicating a system imbalance

the brake pedal is spongy or slow to respond

you hear grinding or constant squealing during braking

Any time you notice these or other symptoms, it’s a good idea to have your brakes checked. At Midas, if our inspection reveals you do need brake repair service, we will explain exactly what's required, what’s optional and provide you with a written estimate before any work is done.

Answer: 55

Question: How many items are inspected during the MIdas SecureStop? brake service?

Midas understands how important brakes are and has developed a 55-point inspection process to diagnose the health of your brake system. Our ASE-certified technicians will let you know which components need immediate attention and which ones can wait. And they’ll discuss brake repair options that fit within your budget.

Our quality pads and shoes come with the famous Midas Lifetime Guarantee.* Brake pads and shoes purchased with this guarantee are warranted for as long as you own your car.

Brake systems - more than you wanted to know.

Your vehicle’s brake system has one job – to stop your vehicle. But it takes several key components to deliver that singular end result. To bring a vehicle to a halt, three things are necessary: leverage, hydraulic force and friction. Leverage is supplied by the driver’s leg pressure and the brake pedal. The pedal is connected by levers and rods to the back of the power booster. The power booster uses either engine vacuum or a hydraulic pump to multiply and transfer the force of that leverage to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is the heart of your vehicle’s brake hydraulic system. It uses applied leverage to force a reservoir full of brake fluid through valves, steel lines and rubber hoses into hydraulic calipers and wheel cylinders. That hydraulic pressure is then used to help create friction.

For example, disc brakes use a hydraulic caliper fitted with brake pads to grab a spinning disc (or rotor). Drum brakes, on the other hand, have a hydraulic wheel cylinder that pushes a brake shoe against the inside of a spinning drum. Either design involves highly engineered parts and precise movement. The more force a driver applies to the brake pedal, the greater the stopping force that is applied at the wheels.

In addition to this primary braking system, most of today’s vehicles utilize an electronic Anti-lock Brake System. Using electronic sensors and high pressure pumps, under certain conditions, your ABS system can measure vehicle speed, wheel slip and brake force. Then it actually pumps the brakes for you during an emergency stop.

That’s why it’s essential to be proactive about testing overall brake components. And to know whether a brake component needs simply to be serviced or totally replaced.

ASK THE MECHANIC

Brakes & Brake Repair FAQs

Q: Do I have to change my brake fluid?

A: You don’t have to change your brake fluid, but consider this: When the brake fluid shows signs of high levels of copper content, the additives in the brake fluid are breaking down. This increases acid levels, and causes erosion of parts and possible damage to Anti-Lock Brake System components. Today’s anti-lock brake systems are expensive – some parts cost thousands of dollars, not including labor. Changing your brake fluid protects this investment.

Q: My car shakes when I hit the brakes. What's going on?

A: It’s possibly a sign that your rotors need attention, but we’ll know for sure once we take a look.

Q: I only have 10,000 miles on my car and my brakes are squeaking. Do I need new brakes already?

A: Probably not, but whether it’s a squeal or a grind, brake noise means the brake system needs some attention. Bring your vehicle to any of our stores, and we’ll be happy to take a look.

Q: How long do brake pads and rotors last?

A: All brake pads and rotors wear down. The rate at which this happens depends on your driving style. Cars that drive in town with lots of stop-and-gos will consume brake friction material much faster than cars that drive primarily on highways. Vehicle loads are the other factor. The heavier your car is, the more braking power it requires to stop.

axxis ultimate brake pads

Axxis Deluxe Ceramic Brake Pads provide exceptional performance, smooth pedal feel, long pad & rotor life & resistance to heat. Low noise & minimal brake ...

Technical Features:

Special ceramic formulation

Integral shim delivers quiet operation

High co-efficient of friction

Exceptional braking power with shorter stopping distances

High resistance to brake fade at high temperatures

Low-metal content

Driving Styles:

Extreme high performance

Hard braking

Road or competitive track

automotive brake pads-DISC BRAKE PADS REPLACEMENT

These instructions will help you change the disc pads on most popular vehicles. Be sure to READ them completely before you begin.

Note: Many newer vehicles are equipped with ABS (Anti-Lock Brake Systems), a computer-controlled system that requires additional mechanical and electrical parts to prevent the wheels from locking up during braking. It may be necessary to temporarily disconnect or remove some of the ABS parts to replace brake pads. Consult an appropriate manual to be sure that all brake parts have been properly reinstalled and reconnected.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

TO REPLACE YOUR DISC BRAKES YOU’LL NEED:

Large C-clamp

Wrenches

Jack

Jack stands

Wire brush

Screwdriver or pry bar

Pliers or vise grips

Hammer

High-temperature lubricant

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Get the correct brake pads and hardware for your vehicle from your local Premium Ceramic Auto Parts store.

Gather all the tools and equipment you'll need and choose a solid, level place to work.

CAUTION: Brake linings may contain asbestos. Avoid creating or breathing dust when changing linings or cleaning parts.

Check for leaks and replace seals or calipers/master cylinder lines/valves as needed.

Work on one wheel at a time, leaving the other side intact for use as a reference.

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INSTALLATION

READ these instructions completely before you begin.

Jacking the vehicule

There are times when you'll need to jack and support your vehicle to reach various parts. Bumper, scissors or hydraulic jacks can be used to raise the vehicle, but NEVER ATTEMPT TO WORK UNDER A VEHICLE SUPPORTED ONLY BY A JACK. The parking brake should be set, the wheels remaining on the ground should be blocked, and the vehicle should be supported by adjustable jack stands or drive-on ramps rated for the weight of the vehicle.

Siphon approximately half of the brake fluid from the brake fluid reservoir into a container and dispose of it properly. Don't reuse the removed brake fluid. Note: Brake fluid will dissolve paint, so handle it with care.

Loosen the lug nut.

Jack up the wheel or axle you'll be working on, support it securely with jack stands and block the other wheels. NEVER work under a car supported by only a jack.

Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

Fixed calipers

Floating Calipers

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Sliding calipers

Sliding calipers

Floating or sliding calipers

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Removing the brake calipers

In most cases you'll need to remove the calipers to change the brake pads.

To remove the calipers:

For fixed calipers, remove the caliper mounting bolts only if the pads won't come out the back of the caliper.

For floating calipers, remove the two caliper mounting bolts or guide pins. Note the location of any bushings or positioner pieces so they can be replaced in their original locations. Lift the caliper off the rotor. Sometimes a twisting motion will push the piston back a bit to give you enough clearance for removal.

For sliding calipers, a support key or retaining clip holds the caliper to the adapter or anchor. Remove the screws or pins holding the key or clip and drive it out. The retainers will lift off when the screws are removed. Note the position of any support springs, anti-rattle springs or clips. Lift the caliper up and off.

Removing the brake pads

Push back the piston before removing the old pads.

For fixed calipers, push against the old pads before you remove them. If the caliper must come off, push back one pad at a time until the pistons are seated, after you remove the caliper.

For floating or sliding calipers, you must remove the caliper to push the piston back. Use a large C-clamp and push on the inboard pad.

Be careful not to damage the pistons, bores or the dust boots when pushing the pistons back. Do one side at a time and be sure you don't pop one piston out while pushing on another. Remember to remove half of the brake fluid in the master cylinder before you start.

Check for fluid leaks or rotor scoring and fix them (replace seals/calipers, machine rotors) before going any further. Certain pistons must now be screwed back with an Allen wrench or special tool to seat them.

Remove the pads from the calipers.

For fixed callipers, remove any pins or retainers (push pads back and pull them out).

For floating or sliding calipers, separate the pads from the caliper. The inner pad must be clipped to the piston. The outer pad may be pinned, clipped or pressed tightly on the caliper. Some pads may remain on the adapter or anchor when the caliper is removed.

Thoroughly clean the entire caliper and the mount with a wire brush. Then use a damp rag to remove any dust or debris.

Installing new brake pads

New brake pads

Install new brake pads

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Install the new pads in the caliper or anchor in the reverse order of their removal. Make sure all locating clips or anti-rattle springs are in position. Some outboard pads have "ears" that must be bent to fit tightly on the caliper. If necessary, bend the ears by tapping them carefully with a hammer, and use vise grips to press them into position. If the pad is loose on the caliper, it will squeal. DO NOT get grease or oil on the pad linings.

Place the caliper in position and reinstall any bolts, guide pins, support keys or retainers. Some support keys must be hammered into position. Reinstall any retaining screws or pins. Make sure all bushings are in position.

Lightly lubricate all sliding metal surfaces with high temperature lubricant.

Tighten all bolts to factory specifications. NEVER replace bolts or pins with standard hardware. Use only special, high-tensile bolts or pins designed specifically for your vehicle.

Fill the master cylinder with clean disc brake fluid, and bleed the brakes if necessary.

QUICK TIPS

Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin.

Gather all your tools and supplies before you begin.

Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry. Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual.

Safety is important whenever you're working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials.

Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle.

If you have any questions about repair and maintenance, contact your local Premium Ceramic Auto Parts store. Find the nearest Premium Ceramic Auto Parts location.

beck arnley brake pads

TRUE | Friction? is designed using the same material recommended by your vehicle’s manufacturer. Each pad is engineered for a perfect fit and precise stop. Why go through the process of determining whether your vehicle needs ceramic, semi-metallic, or organic material? TRUE | Friction?, is the TRUE pad material meant for your specific vehicle… making it the TRUE choice.

Benefits:

OE Material Matching

Specifically designed to MATCH OE friction material type.

TRUE Fit

Precision cut edges to ensure a true fit for each vehicle application.

Minimal Dust

Based in OE friction material type, formulated to minimize brake dust.

Sound Suppression

Chemically and Mechanically bonded shims help eliminate braking noise.

How To Change Your Brake Pads- Reliable, Affordable Auto Repair

You will be pleasantly surprised to find that you can change your car's disc brake pads quickly, easily and without specialized tools. Doing it yourself also will save you a lot of money. But even if you're not interesting in doing this yourself, knowing what's involved makes it easier to understand what your mechanic may someday tell you.

Nearly all cars these days have front disc brakes. Front brakes usually wear out more quickly than the rear brakes (which could either be disc or drum brakes), so they need to be changed more often. You need to change brake pads when they get too thin, especially if they begin to make a persistent metallic squeaking or grinding noise when you press the brake pedal. But noise alone isn't always the best indicator, so it's best to anticipate when this will happen by periodically inspecting the thickness of the brake pads.

Note: If the front end of the car vibrates when you apply the brakes, your brake rotors may be warped. If the rotors appear grooved or uneven, they may be scored. In either case the rotors may also need to be replaced or "turned" on a brake lathe, a procedure not covered here. You may need a professional's help for this, but you can see what's involved in a rotor change by looking here.

Money saved: About $250 for most cars and much more for luxury or performance cars

Time Required: 1 hour

Tools Required

Disposable mechanic's gloves to protect your hands and keep them clean

Jack and jack stands

Lug wrench

C-clamp or length of wood to retract the piston

Wrench (choose a socket, open end or adjustable wrench)

Turkey baster for drawing out brake fluid

Plastic tie, bungee cord or piece of string

Materials Required

New brake pads. Since you are saving money by doing this yourself, you might want to consider splurging a bit by buying original manufacturer brake pads, which are more expensive.

Can of brake fluid — check your owner's manual for the proper type.

Here are a couple of things to note before you begin.

Know your calipers: The majority of cars have a "sliding caliper" brake assembly. That's what's shown in the photo above. Compare this brake assembly to the one in your car. Other cars have "fixed caliper" assemblies. The pads in fixed-caliper brakes are also easy to change but the process is slightly different, so we'll cover it in another instructional piece.

Do one side, then the other: For reasons that will be clear later, you should change the pads on one side of the car from start to finish before doing the other side. Also, since you're doing one side at a time, turn the steering wheel so that the wheel you're working on is angled out for better access to the brakes.

Now we can get started.

Brake Pad

1. Loosen the lug nuts on the wheel. Then jack up the car and place a jack stand under the car's frame. Lower the jack so its weight rests on the jack stand. Fully remove the lug nuts and remove the wheel. You now have access to the brake assembly and can safely reach under the car.

2. Find the two slider bolts (sometimes called "pins") that hold the caliper in place. On this car, a 2009 Ford Flex, the bolts are on the inside. The arrows in the photograph above point them out. It's generally only necessary to remove the lower bolt. It can be long but once it is fully loosened, it will slide out easily.

3. With the bottom bolt removed, the caliper pivots up, as shown in the photograph above. The rubber hose, which is the hydraulic line, will flex to allow this so do not disconnect any hydraulic lines. If you think you have to disconnect a hydraulic line, you're doing something wrong. Reassemble the brakes and seek professional help.

At this point, it is very easy to inspect the thickness of the brake pads to confirm that they need to be changed. Most brake pads have metal wear indicators, which are small metal tabs that squeak when they contact the rotors. Even if these are not yet touching, the pads are worn out if the friction material is 1/8th of an inch thick or less at any point.

4. The brake pads are now exposed and the retaining clips hold them loosely in place. Simply slide the old brake pads out, as shown in the photo.

In the above photo, you can see a comparison of the new, thicker brake pad (top), next to the old, worn-down brake pad (bottom).

5. The photo above shows the pad's new retaining clips. New pads almost always come with new clips, which allow the pads to slide back and forth easily. Use the new ones and chuck the old ones. There are no retaining screws for the clips. They just snap in place. There are usually left-handed and right-handed clips, so change one at a time, making sure they match up exactly as you go.

Often, a small packet of graphite-based grease will come with the brake pads. Apply this to the clips of the new brake pads to keep them from squeaking, as shown in the photo above.

This photo shows that the new brake pad has a riveted-on shim, which is the thin metal plate. Some brake pads might have unattached shims that have to be temporarily held in position until you lock the pads in place. The "ears" are the metal tabs on either end of the brake pad (only the two left ears are visible here). These ears fit into the slots in the clips. Some of the grease can be applied to the ears and between any loose metal shims, too.

6. The new pads slide into place as easily as the old ones did when they came out, though sometimes the new clips will be tighter. The ears of the new pads should slot nicely into place on the grease you applied.

7. In the photo above, the arrows point to the pistons. These pistons press on the brake pads and squeeze the rotor to stop the car. Your car might only have one piston for each wheel, but the principle is the same. Before you can lower the caliper into place, these pistons need to be retracted (pushed back) so that they will clear the new, thicker brake pads.

8. Do-it-yourselfers often use a C-clamp to retract the piston or pistons. In this case, we simply levered the piston back using a 2x4 and a piece of plywood. By doing this, the brake fluid in the pistons is being pushed back into the master cylinder reservoir through tiny passages, so the pistons move slowly. The width of the 2x4 allows both pistons to be pushed in at once. If you pushed in one by itself, the other would pop out — you don't want that. Fortunately, most cars have just one piston per caliper, which makes things far simpler. Either way, steady pressure and patience are key here. In this example, we added a second plywood shim near the end of the process to fill the ever-increasing gap. Throughout, take the utmost care to ensure you don't nick or tear the rubber boot and seal that encircles the pistons.

9. When you push the pistons back, the brake fluid level slowly rises. Open the master cylinder reservoir and check it often. This is more of a concern when you work on the second brake, because the combined fluid volume of two calipers could cause the brake fluid to overflow. If it looks like this is going to happen, suck out some of the brake fluid with a turkey baster. There is more danger of overflowing if someone topped off the fluid level during regular service visits. (This is why the brake fluid reservoir shouldn't necessarily be topped off like that.) The fluid level naturally goes down as the pads wear. And it comes back up when the pads are replaced. As long as the level doesn't go below "MIN," the arrow shown in the photo above, on the lower half of the reservoir, everything is cool.

10. With the pistons retracted, the caliper should slip over the pads with little effort. Sometimes the fit is tight and the caliper will slide on the newly installed brake pads. If the pistons catch on the brake pads, you might need to check that you retracted the piston completely.

11. Reinstall and retighten the slider bolt. Straighten the car's wheels, re-mount the tire and tighten the lug nuts.

12. Repeat all these steps for the other side of the front brakes. Remember that the brake fluid will be higher in the reservoir now that new pads are installed on one side, so keep your eye on the fluid level as you retract the piston on the other side. The fluid will only rise further the second time around. You don't want it to overflow since the brake fluid is highly corrosive. If it looks as if the fluid will overflow, suck some out with the turkey baster. If the level is below the "MAX" when both sides are done, add fresh fluid to top things off to the line.

13. Test-drive the car under safe conditions to make sure everything is working properly, being especially careful for the first few stops. Be aware that your brake pedal might have a higher engagement point. You will quickly get used to this change. Enjoy using your new brakes knowing there are now thick brake pads to stop you safely.

bosch brake pads

Key Features

Introducing Bosch Blue Disc Brake Pads

From the Worldwide Leader in Braking Technology

Bosch Blue Disc Brake Pads were created for the everyday driver, and offers the same testing and engineering process as our premium braking line.

The new brake pad line:

Utilizes the same testing and engineering process as our premium braking line

Meets and exceeds the performance and quality of higher priced alternatives

Offers revolutionary engineering and advanced friction formulations for quiet and clean performance

Ask for Bosch Blue Disc Brake Pads at your local auto supply store or your wholesale supplier.

Every Bosch QuietCast? Disc Brake Pad is fitted with the industry’s best pre-attached rubber core shim. This

shim style is the most predominant type used by OE manufacturers and is exclusively offered by Bosch for the

independent aftermarket.

f The laminated rubber-core shim is heat and pressure cured between two layers of steel. This process ensures

the highest quality bonding of the rubber to steel resulting in lower noise, increased strength, and corrosion

resistance.

f Sound vibrations pass through the friction material and backing plate, but are dissipated by the unique rubber

core in the shim for remarkable noise dampening.

Molded Shim Technology (MST)

At the time of pressing, heat, adhesive and pressure mold the multi-layer shim to the backing plate and friction

material creating an integrally molded unit.

f Shim stays attached throughout the life of the pad; won’t walk or slide on the backing plate.

f Provides maximum stability resulting in quieter shim performance over the life of the pad.

Rigorous Testing Ensures Quality

Bosch is closely involved in every step of the QuietCast? process:

f Worldwide R&D network with 2,500 associates and nine test tracks

f Dedicated engineers source and rigorously test all friction materials and formulations

f Manufactured under the same exacting quality standards as OE components and systems

f Rigorous physical and dynamometer testing

akembo brake pads Aftermarket Brake Products

Everyday driving presents a variety of challenges. Whether you are dropping the kids off at school, heading to the grocery store, on your way to the big game or race, commuting to and from work, or taking the family on a cross-country vacation, Safety and Reliability is what you can expect from Akebono Ultra-Premium and Premium brake products and remanufactured loaded calipers.

Choose Akebono's advanced friction technology, which is approved more and more by the auto manufacturer's every year, in order to restore or upgrade your brake system performance to the ultimate level. Akebono's advanced friction is available in every Pro-ACT, EURO and Akebono Performance Ultra-Premium brake pad kit and remanufactured ProACT brake caliper that Akebono sells.

Akebono Brake Pads...

Are the OEM Brand of Choice

Will restore vehicle braking performance to its ideal and optimal specifications

Provide safe, quiet, clean and dependable braking

Utilizes Rotor Friendly pad formulations that prevent rotor thickness variation and pedal pulsation complaints

Brake Pads: Aftermarket Performance Pads vs.OEM Brake

Brake pads aren't something that a lot of people think about on a daily basis. The brake pads that auto manufacturer's select for their vehicles are chosen based on select number of qualities, primarily noise, dust, stopping ability and wear. The ideal combination of these aspects is obviously low noise and dust, good stopping power and long pad life. That's a lot to ask from a brake pad! Think about it, brake pads get a lot of abuse; they have to deal with high temperatures and be able to make friction occur on wet/dry/cold/hot rotors, and they have to do it repeatedly for fifty thousand miles or more! That's pretty demanding, but somehow manufacturers have been able to engineer pads that meet these levels of performance.

How Aftermarket Brake Pads Work

So why do aftermarket pads even exist? If manufacturers have already figured out how to make an ideal brake compound that consistently stops cars and requires little to no maintenance, then why are there all these companies out there boasting they have better pads? Well, it's a tough question to answer, but the main reason is for performance. You see, everyone measure performance on a different scale; do you want lots of pad-bite and maximum friction, or do you want a pad that will deal with repeatedly stopping heavy loads without wearing out in six thousand miles, or do you want something that is like what the original pads were like?

That is the first step to choosing your next set of brake pads. If you want something that offers higher friction levels and shorter stopping distances, then you'll want a semi-metallic brake pad that was designed for light to heavy track use.If you want a pad that can deal with towing loads and four-wheeling, an extended wear pad would be your best choice. For the longest lasting, low-dust pad a ceramic compound would be optimal.

There are a few manufacturers who make a semi-metallic ceramic compound that will supposedly offer high friction, low-dust and wear, but my personal experience has been that these pads are trying to be everything for everybody, but end up not being that great at anything.

How OEM Brake Pads Work

Another thing to consider when choosing your brake pads is how they are constructed. All OEM brake pads are made using a positive molding process where the compound is put into a mold, the brake shim is applied to the back of the mold and then the entire compound is heated up to melt the brake compound, pressure it into a perfect mold and bond the shim to the back of the pad. This process helps eliminate noise by minimizing pad movement. Many aftermarket pads are not made in this fashion, rather the compound is heated and pressed in a machine and then a shim is glued to pad after the molding process. While the glue does hold the pretty pad tight, it is not as secure as using the positive molding process.

Why don't most aftermarket brake pad manufacturers use positive molding processes? Well for one, the positive molding is more expensive. The second reason is that some people don't want to use the shim that is provided by the brake pad manufacturer. For example, some track racers want to use titanium shims to help transfer heat from the pad to the air.

Choosing OEM or Performance Brake Pads

There is one manufacturer who does make their pads using OEM processes; this is the Posi Quiet brand, which is owned by Centric. Posi Quiet makes brake pads for the people who were happy with their OEM brake pads, but don't want to pay OEM prices. For this reason, they adopted OEM manufacturing techniques and formulated their own compound to appease the masses. Posi Quiet also scorches their brake pads, which removes any impurities and burnishes the surface of the pad so that no break in period is required, just like your OEM pads. No other aftermarket pad manufacturer does this, which makes Posi Quiet stand out above the rest. If you'd like to get more information on auto parts from Posi Quiet, have a look at these pages dedicated to Posi Quiet brakes & Posi Quiet brake pads.

Brake Maintenance Basics

Doing your own brake maintenance is much easier that you might assume. Learn about the 5 main brake components, costs, and a good maintenance schedule.

Brake Maintenance Needed

Doing your own brake maintenance may sound like a fairly daunting task, but when you learn how simple it is, you'll wish you'd been doing it all along. Your vehicle's brakes consist of five main components: brake pads, rotors, calipers, lines, and a master cylinder. In order to service them yourself, you'll have to know what each one of those parts does.

Master Cylinder and Brake Lines

Your vehicle's brakes operate hydraulically. That is, they use fluid to transfer the power of your foot on the pedal to the actual brakes on the wheels. The master cylinder is the starting point of that power flow. If the master cylinder is faulty, it can't exert enough power to push the fluid to the brakes, so you should always inspect the master cylinder and brake lines for damage. Additionally, inspect your brake fluid for cleanliness. Once you know your fluid is clean and the master cylinder and lines are operating properly, you should check the mechanical parts of the brakes.

Calipers, Pads and Rotors

Brake calipers, pads and rotors all work together to stop your vehicle. When you step on your brake pedal, the master cylinder sends fluid to the brake calipers which squeeze together, exerting pressure on the brake pads. It's important to inspect your calipers often for signs of wear or damage.

When the calipers squeeze, the brake pads clamp down on the rotors in order to slow your car. If your brake pads are worn, they can't make a smooth connection with the rotors and this can actually damage your rotors with rough spots and uneven grooves. Rotor repairs can be very costly so always make sure your brake pads are sized to specifications and that they're not worn down too far. Today, most brake pads come with wear indicators that will make a squealing sound to let you know it's time for replacement. It's best to replace them before you hear a squeal and check your brake rotors often to be sure that there is no irregular wear or damage.

Maintenance Schedule

Sticking to the schedule specified in your owner's manual will keep you from forgetting when it's time to service your brakes. If you are not sure when to replace your pads or fluid, a good rule of thumb is to inspect your brake pads for wear about every 12,000 miles. Many manufacturers recommend replacing them if there is 1/8 inch or less of the pad lining remaining or they recommend replacing them around every 25,000 miles. Check your brake fluid from time to time or ask that your service technician inspect it at each oil change. If the brake fluid is dirty, you should replace it. If you can't tell or you wish to replace it on a regular basis, many manufacturers recommend replacing brake fluid every 20,000 to 25,000 miles. Always remember to replace brake pads and brake fluid according to your style of driving and your specific vehicle's needs.

Brake Maintenance Cost Considerations

Brake maintenance is important for not only the obvious safety reasons, but also for your wallet.

Brake maintenance includes installing new brake pads and resurfacing brake rotors. You should expect the rates for this service to range from $60.00 to $200 depending on the type of vehicle you drive. The price of brake maintenance is a far cry from brake repair which requires replacing the pads and the rotors and can cost you as much as $900. Remember to find a qualified automotive technician and use parts specifically designed to fit your vehicle's braking system.

Adaptive One CERAMIC BRAKE PAD brake pads REVIEW

A Great Braking System with New Enhanced Formulation!

Adaptive One CERAMIC BRAKE PAD CERAMIC BRAKE PAD, the only pads on the market featuring two different inner and outer ceramic formulations has received rave reviews from technicians and consumers since its introduction in 2006, and is now even better.

Adaptive One CERAMIC BRAKE PAD combines the optimum quiet and low-dust characteristics of one-pad formulation with the extra braking power of the other pad for the consistent pedal feel, low-dust and no noise performance every driver wants. These exclusive formulations mate separately to the rotor, each performing to its maximum potential with the tightest tolerances allowable. The result—they look as good as they feel and they come with a noise free guarantee!

With continual enhancements and new part numbers being developed, Adaptive One CERAMIC BRAKE PAD? will be the preferred brand well into the future.

Advanced Technology to Maximize Performance

Adaptive One CERAMIC BRAKE PAD ceramic formulation contain enhanced modifiers, fillers, lubricants, resins and fibers to provide added durability for longer pad life, decreased dusting and increased overall stopping performance.

1. Unique dual-ceramic paired formulations provide smooth, quiet stopping, low dusting and consistent, secure performance under all braking temperatures.

2. New radially tuned slot design and contoured chamfers create a unique pad surface that mates perfectly to the rotor reducing noise while increasing brake performance.

3. Mechanical Friction Attachment System reduces noise and the risk of bond separation. (where applicable)

4. Premium shim materials are made of a high-quality polymer-coated metal alloy and deliver outstanding noise reduction.

Nothing on the market compares to the originality and innovation of Adaptive One CERAMIC BRAKE PAD? Hybrid Ceramic Disc Brake Pads. By giving drivers now even more strategically combined formulations that react to individual driving styles, Adaptive One CERAMIC BRAKE PAD? friction embodies NAPA? Brakes continued commitment to quality, innovation and customer support.

How Drum Brakes Work

Drum brakes work on the same principle as disc brakes: Shoes press against a spinning surface. In this system, that surface is called a drum.

Many cars have drum brakes on the rear wheels and disc brakes on the front. Drum brakes have more parts than disc brakes and are harder to service, but they are less expensive to manufacture, and they easily incorporate an emergency brake mechanism.

In this edition of HowStuffWorks, we will learn exactly how a drum brake system works, examine the emergency brake setup and find out what kind of servicing drum brakes need.

Figure 2. Drum brake with drum in place

Figure 3. Drum brake without drum in place

Before brake discs became widely used in the braking system industry, brake drums were used in their place. Brake drums, however, are far from being obsolete, because some vehicles still use them on their rear wheels. Just like disc brakes, a brake drum works on the same principle in order to be effective: shoes clamp against a spinning surface to make the wheels stop. Brake drums are usually made from cast iron or aluminum housing. They're bolted to the wheels and work with a few key parts: two brake shoes and one piston with each drum. These parts are essential in making sure that the brakes work properly. The brake drums rotate around the brake shoes. Each time you hit your car's brake pedals, the piston moves the brake shoes toward the brake drum's inner surface. The entire assembly also uses springs, which squeeze the brake shoes against the drums. These springs also enable the shoes to pull out when you release the brake pedals. However, constant usage will eventually wear out the brake drum. As the brake drum's surface thins out, the braking capacity of your vehicle lessens. That's why it's necessary to use only the best brake drums that won't wear out quickly. That way, the shoes are always close to the drum's surface and can slow down and stop the wheels effectively. At Auto Parts Warehouse, we offer high-quality brake drums at affordable prices. So if yours needs to be replaced right away, get one from our online catalog today!

Before brake discs became widely used in the braking system industry, brake drums were used in their place. Brake drums, however, are far from being obsolete, because some vehicles still use them on their rear wheels. Just like disc brakes, a brake drum works on the same principle in order to be effective: shoes clamp against a spinning surface to make the wheels stop. Brake drums are usually made from cast iron or aluminum housing. They're bolted to the wheels and work with a few key parts: two brake shoes and one piston with each drum. These parts are essential in making sure that the brakes work properly. The brake drums rotate around the brake shoes. Each time you hit your car's brake pedals, the piston moves the brake shoes toward the brake drum's inner surface. The entire assembly also uses springs, which squeeze the brake shoes against the drums. These springs also enable the shoes to pull out when you release the brake pedals. However, constant usage will eventually wear out the brake drum. As the brake drum's surface thins out, the braking capacity of your vehicle lessens. That's why it's necessary to use only the best brake drums that won't wear out quickly. That way, the shoes are always close to the drum's surface and can slow down and stop the wheels effectively. At Auto Parts Warehouse, we offer high-quality brake drums at affordable prices. So if yours needs to be replaced right away, get one from our online catalog today!

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Date Published: July 30,2014

How to Choose the Right Brake Drum

While everyone knows that your brake system is an important part of your car, few are aware of the different components that make your brakes tick. One of the most abused parts of your brakes is your brake drum. Aside from continuously absorbing and dissipating heat, it is also prone to dents from the other parts of the system. Once you notice deep grooves in your brake, you should start looking for new ones to avoid more damage. Here are a few things you have to remember in choosing the right one for your brake system:

Types of brake drum

Since stopping a 50-ton truck requires more power than braking a typical sedan, most companies have differentiated brake drum types according to their capacities. The two most common brake drums are the value and standard brake drums. These types are your typical brake drums that are made to withstand standard drive and lighter trailer applications. High-performance brake drums, on the other hand, are best used for heavy-duty driving. Their longer brake and lining life allow for lower maintenance costs, especially for vehicles with heavier loads.

Your brake drum buying checklist

After knowing what type of brake drum you need, there are still a few other things to look for when shopping for new ones. There are many brands in the market that offer different kinds of technology to improve your brake drum performance. If you find all of these confusing, you just have to stick to one basic rule when purchasing new brake drums--examine the part yourself using a checklist. Are the brake drums accurately balanced? Are they sufficiently rigid and resistant against wear? Are they lightweight? Are they made of materials that are heat conductive? These are the questions you have to answer to guide you through the buying process. If you answered yes to all these questions, then that particular brake drum is perfect for you.

Warranty

The warranty can make or break your decision to purchase a particular brake drum. However, it's very difficult to compare the warranty from different manufacturers. When it comes drum brakes, there is no standard warranty coverage. Some sellers provide coverage for one year with unlimited mileage, while some only cover 90 days. So it's best to rely on the company selling you the warranty rather than on the coverage itself. Ask the dealer or seller about the warranty itself. You should know what's covered, the expiration dates or miles, and the necessary paperwork. Make sure your brake drum has a good warranty clause. It helps you get great value for your money, especially when your brake drum doesn't meet reasonable quality.

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Date Published: July 30,2014

Replacing the Old Brake Drum: How to Install a New One

If stopping your car feels like stepping on a sponge rather than on a firm brake pedal, you know it's about time for your old brake drums to retire. Replacing them may seem like a tedious task for most DIYers, but with proper tools and this step-by-step guide, you can revive your brakes to their former glory by installing new brake drums.

Difficulty level: Easy to moderate

Things you'll need:

Lug wrench

Dry paper towel

New brake drums

Step 1: Preparing your car

Before lifting your car, loosen the lug nuts of your wheels. This gives you an easier hold on your wheels once they are off the ground. Using a hydraulic lift or a jack and jack stands, slowly lift your car.

Step 2: Removing your wheels

Completely remove the lug nuts and pull off the hub from the wheel. Remove your wheels as well.

Step 3: Removing your brake drums

Remove the brake drums using your hands. Make sure that your brake shoes are not holding on to the drums to easily pry them off. If you still can't pull them out, check for bolts that are holding your brake drums.

Step 4: Cleaning your brake system

Once you've removed your brake drums, clean the other parts of your brake system using a dry rag.

Step 5: Installing your brake drums

Install your new brake drums in place. Adjust your brake shoes for the perfect fit of the drums.

Step 6: Testing your new brake drums

Test your new brake drums by stepping on your brake pedals a few times. Make sure that the brake shoes and brake drums are not too tight or too far apart from each other.

Step 7: Finishing touches

Put back your wheels and wheel covers. Secure them tightly with your lug nuts and then lower your car.

brake job cost-Average Brake Repair Cost for Each Brake Problem

Brake repair cost depends on the type of repair needed. Get brake repair prices for problems with low fluid, worn pads and drums, and cylinders.

Brake Repair

Brake repair cost will vary depending on what needs to be done to get you back on the road and driving safely. Many service stations such as Midas will perform a basic brake check to determine the extent of any problems. If you hear any brake noise such as screeching, squeaking or grinding, you should immediately have your brakes checked.

Brake Problems

There are several things that can go wrong with brakes. Worn out brake pads, calipers and drums might be the issue, but it could also be a problem with your master cylinder, individual wheel cylinders or simply a lack of fluid. The cost of repairing brake problems fluctuates depending on what is wrong.

Low Fluid

The easiest of brake problems simply involves a low amount of brake fluid in the master cylinder. Removing the cap and topping off the fluid is the way to fix it, but keep in mind, if the master cylinder is empty, pouring more fluid in will push air into the system. To fix this you will have to bleed the brakes. If you can't do this yourself, it will cost some labor hours with a mechanic.

Don't Pay Too Much - Learn More About Brake Repair

Worn Pads or Drums

A standard brake problem is worn pads and drums. Because brakes use friction to stop the car, as time wears on, so do the brake pads. It's just a simple fact of physics. Friction causes wear. After a while, brake pads must be replaced. You will detect a need to replace pads by hearing gradually increasing squeaking whenever you hit the brakes. If it goes on too long without being replaced, eventually you may have to replace the drums and/or rotors as well. At this point, what could have been a relatively inexpensive fix is now more expensive. A standard replacement of pads may cost $75 to $100, whereas a drum, rotor, and/or caliper replacement can get up into the several hundreds depending on the extent of the problem.

Master Cylinder and Wheel Cylinders

The master cylinder is where the brake fluid is stored and through pressure, sent to each wheel cylinder. This fluid is what applies force to the pads and drums when you press down on the brake pedal. If the master cylinder goes bad, when you press down on the brake pedal, it might go to the floor and take longer to stop the car. At best, your braking power is greatly reduced; at worst, it could endanger your life by not stopping the car. The average cost of master cylinder repair is usually between $200 and $300, but it can be more, again, depending on the scope of the fix. If individual wheel cylinders need to be replaced, the cost will go up.

The repair price for an entire brake job—rotors, calipers, drums, pads, cylinders—can run you $750 or more. Therefore, it's best to stay on top of brake repair and get the pads replaced when you hear squeaking. Components like master cylinders wear down after time, so eventually it will have to be replaced. As long as you keep brake fluid in it and keep an eye on it, though, you'll be safe to drive and can take the steps to have it fixed when it comes time.

Brake pad

Brake pads are a component of disc brakes used in automotive and other applications. Brake pads are steel backing plates with friction material bound to the surface that faces the disk brake rotor.

Function

Brake pads convert the kinetic energy of the car to thermal energy by friction. Two brake pads are contained in the brake caliper with their friction surfaces facing the rotor.[1] When the brakes are hydraulically applied, the caliper clamps or squeezes the two pads together into the spinning rotor to slow/stop the vehicle. When a brake pad is heated by contact with a rotor, it transfers small amounts of friction material to the disc, turning it dull gray. The brake pad and disc (both now with friction material), then "stick" to each other, providing the friction that stops the vehicle.

In disc brake applications, there are usually two brake pads per disc rotor, held in place and actuated by a caliper affixed to a wheel hub or suspension upright. Although almost all road-going vehicles have only two brake pads per caliper, racing calipers utilize up to six pads, with varying frictional properties in a staggered pattern for optimum performance. Depending on the properties of the material, disc wear rates may vary. The brake pads must usually be replaced regularly (depending on pad material), and most are equipped with a method of alerting the driver when this needs to take place. Some are manufactured with a small central groove whose eventual disappearance through wear indicates that the pad is nearing the end of its service life. Others are made with a thin strip of soft metal in a similar position that when exposed through wear causes the brakes to squeal audibly. Still others have a soft metal tab embedded in the pad material that closes an electric circuit and lights a dashboard warning light when the brake pad gets thin.

Technology

Disc brake advantages

Disc brakes offer better stopping performance than comparable drum brakes, including resistance to "brake fade" caused by the overheating of brake components, and are able to recover quickly from immersion (wet brakes are less effective). Unlike a drum brake, the disc brake has no self-servo effect—the braking force is always proportional to the pressure placed on the braking pedal or lever—but many disc brake systems have servo assistance ("Brake Booster") to lessen the driver's pedal effort.[citation needed]

Types

A set of high performance disk brake pads

There are numerous types of brake pads, depending on the intended use of the vehicle, from very soft and aggressive (such as racing applications) and harder, more durable and less aggressive compounds. Most vehicle manufacturers recommend a specific kind of brake pad for their vehicle, but compounds can be changed (by either buying a different make of pad or upgrading to a performance pad in a manufacturer's range) according to personal tastes and driving styles. Care must always be taken when fitting non-standard brake pads, as operating temperature ranges may vary, such as performance pads not braking efficiently when cold or standard pads fading under hard driving. In cars that suffer from excessive brake fade, the problem can be minimized by installing better quality and more aggressive brake pads.

Materials

The five most important characteristics that are considered when selecting a brake pad material are as follows:

The materials ability to resist brake fade at increased temperatures

The effects of water on brake fade (all brakes are designed to withstand at least temporary exposure to water)

The ability to recover quickly from either increased temperature or moisture

Service life as traded off vs. wear to the rotor

The ability of the material to provide smooth, even contact with the rotor or drum (rather than a material that breaks off in chunks or causes pits or dents).[2]

For many years straightforward asbestos was viewed has having an optimal performance in all five categories. However, as the serious health-related hazards of asbestos became apparent, other materials had to be found. Today, brake pad materials are classified as belonging to one of four principal categories, as follows:

Non-metallic materials - these are made from a combination of various synthetic substances bonded into a composite, principally in the form of cellulose, aramid, PAN, and sintered glass. They are gentle on rotors, but produce a fair amount of dust and have a short service life.

Semi-metallic materials - synthetics mixed with some proportion of flaked metals. These are harder than non-metallic pads, and are more fade-resistant and longer lasting, but at the cost of increased wear to the rotor/ drum which then must be replaced sooner. They also require more force than non-metallic pads in order to generate braking torque.

Fully-metallic materials - these pads are used only in racing vehicles, and are composed of sintered steel without any synthetic additives. They are very long-lasting, but require even more force to slow a vehicle and are extremely wearing on rotors. They also tend to be very loud.

Ceramic materials - Composed of clay and porcelain bonded to copper flakes and filaments, these are a good compromise between the durability of the metal pads and the grip and fade resistance of the synthetic variety. Their principal drawback, however, is that unlike the previous three types and despite the presence of the copper (which has a high thermal conductivity), ceramic pads generally do not dissipate heat well, which can eventually cause the pads or other components of the braking system to warp.[2] However, because the ceramic materials causes the braking sound to be elevated beyond that of human hearing, they are exceptionally quiet.

There are environmental factors that govern the selection of brake pad materials. For example, recent legislation in Washington State (SSB 6557) and other states will limit the amount of copper that is allowed to be used in friction materials, to be eventually phased out to trace amounts.[why?] Other materials like antimony compounds will be monitored as well.

Vehicles have different braking requirements. Friction materials offer application-specific formulas and designs. Brake pads with a higher coefficient of friction provide good braking with less brake pedal pressure requirement, but tend to lose efficiency at higher temperatures, increasing stopping distance. Brake pads with a smaller and constant coefficient of friction do not lose efficiency at higher temperatures and are stable, but require higher brake pedal pressure.

Cataloguing

There are different systems for the cataloguing of brake pads. The most frequently used system in Europe is the WVA numbering system.[3]

The cataloguing system used in North America, and recognized around the world, is the standardized part numbering system for brakes and clutch facings issued by the Friction Materials Standards Institute (FMSI). FMSI's mission is to, "Maintain and enhance this standardized part numbering system for all on highway vehicles in use in North America."[4]

brake job Basic Brake Service Package

The brake job Basic Brake Service package includes a thorough brake system evaluation, brake pad or brake shoe replacement, and off-vehicle resurfacing of drums or rotors on the serviced axle(s) performed by our certified professional brake job technicians. Select one of four replacement brake pad or brake shoe options that best fit the needs of your vehicle.

Includes:

Your choice of replacement pads or shoes:

ProStop Package

As Low As $139.99 per front or rear brake service ($109.99 after mail-in rebate)

ProStop Pads feature standard resistance formula and delivers dependable stopping power for safe braking

ProStop brake pads meet OE (original equipment) requirements

6-Month/6,000 mile labor warranty

ProStop Platinum Package

As Low As $189.99 per front or rear brake service ($159.99 after mail-in rebate)

ProStop Platinum Pads are engineered to your vehicle’s specific braking requirements resulting in original equipment performance by utilizing the manufacturer’s specified friction formula

Slotted and chamfered per original equipment requirements to reduce noise and harshness

Vehicle specific formulas deliver the pedal feel and performance of your vehicle's original brake pads

12-Month/12,000 mile labor warranty

ProStop Ceramic Package

As Low As $209.99 per front or rear brake service ($179.99 after mail-in rebate)

ProStop Premium Ceramic Pad formulas are engineered to match your vehicle’s specific braking requirements while delivering less noise and dust than non-ceramic options

Premium alloy multi-layered shims offer the ultimate in noise suppression

100% slotted and chamfered to reduce noise and harshness

Gentler on your vehicle’s rotors resulting in a longer brake system life

18-Month/18,000 mile labor warranty

Akebono Ultra Ceramic Package

As Low As $229.99 per front or rear brake service ($199.99 after mail-in rebate)

Akebono is the leader of manufacturing the optimal ceramic material for your vehicle model and the originator of ceramic technology, and is a trusted OEM supplier. Akebono brake pads provide the best performance and the safest braking experience.

Constructed with the finest quality materials, these premium ceramic brake pads provide a significant reduction in dust for cleaner wheels

Vehicle-optimized ceramic formulas ensure a best in class brake experience

Akebono brake pads promise increased pad and rotor life and create the smoothest, most efficient stopping

No brake-in needed with these high performance brake pads!

The ultimate upgrade for OE semi-metallic & low metallic brake pads

18-Month/18,000 mile labor warranty

How to Bed in Brake Pads

Procedure Steps

Brake-pad bedding is an important process that removes impurities from the surface of the brake pad and lays down a thin layer of pad residue on the rotor surface. This is accomplished through repeated heated and cooling during braking. These cycles are like Goldilocks and the three bears: temperatures need to be just right to prevent scarring of the brake pad and rotor surfaces, or uneven pad transfer. Follow these easy guidelines and enjoy quiet, smooth and long-lasting braking. While every manufacturer has a different method for bedding in their brake pads, the basics remain the same—regardless of brand.

After installing your new set of brake pads, follow these simple steps:

Find an open stretch of road that will allow you to safely stop your vehicle multiple times

Accelerate to 35 mph and apply moderate brake pressure to reduce your speed to 5-10 MPH

Repeat this process 3-4 times, the goal is to warm up your brake pads

Now turn up the heat even more by increasing your speed to 45 mph and braking down to 10 mph

Repeat this process 3-4 times

Pro Tip: It’s important to avoid coming to a complete stop during this stage as it’s possible to melt brake pads against hot rotors. Of course, should a deer, pedestrian or Sasquatch run onto the road, feel free to mash the brake pedal. Safety first!

Your stop-and-go session is now complete. Park the car and allow the brakes to fully cool for an hour. For best results, avoid pressing down on the brake pedal when parked

While bedding in your brakes can sound like a sensitive procedure, one funky stop isn’t going to ruin your efforts. There’s no need to stress out, just drive safely and avoid emergency stops if at all possible.

Bedding In Brake Rotors-Bedding In Brake Rotors

Anytime you install new brake rotors, brake pads, or both, it?s advantageous to bed in your new brakes. Bedding in your brakes is just an industry term to explain breaking in your new brakes. Bedding in your brakes helps transfer an even layer of brake pad material onto the brake rotor which assists in smoother brake operation and improved braking power.

Having a uniform layer of pad material on the brake rotor is essential to minimizing brake squeal and vibration. For this procedure, you will need a good stretch of road and no traffic.

Use common sense and take precaution as BrakePerformance does not take responsibility for erratic driving, accidents, or damages done.

Note: When using Brake Performance E-Coated/Zinc-Coatedrotors, drive around normally and use the brakes until the friction contact surface is wiped clean of the coating prior to this procedure.

Perform 3-4 medium stops from 45mph. Slightly more aggressive than normal braking. You don?t need to come to a complete stop for each pass. This brings the brake rotors up to temperature so they are not exposed to sudden thermal shock.

Make 8-10 aggressive stops from 60mph down to 15mph. For this set of semi-stops, you want to be firm and aggressive, but not to the point where ABS activates and the wheels lock up. It?s important to note that you don?t come to a complete stop but rather a semi-stop (~15mph). Accelerate back up to 60mph as soon as you slowed down to your semi-stop.

The brake pads and brake rotors are extremely hot at this point and sitting on one point will imprint the pad material onto the surface unevenly. This can cause vibration and uneven braking.

You may notice that your brakes will start fading, and sometimes smoke, after the 6th or 7th pass. This fade will stabilize and will gradually recess once your brakes have cooled down to normal operating temperatures. Drive carefully as your brakes may feel softer for the next few minutes.

Try not to come to a complete stop and find a stretch of road where you can coast for 5-10 minutes, preferably without using your brakes.

After the break-in procedure, there may be a light blue tint on your brake rotors as well as a gray film deposit. The blue tint shows that your rotor has reached the appropriate temperature during the bedding process, and the gray film is some of the pad transfer material.

Some cars and trucks require two cycles of the bedding in procedure. This may be the case if you are using old brake rotors with new brake pads, or new brake rotors with old pads. This may also be the case if you don?t think you fully heated up the brakes in the initial bedding procedure. In any case, it?s required that you wait at least 10-15 minutes between each cycle as you don?t want them to overlap.