DIY Brake Pad Replacement - How to Change Pads and Avoid Common Mistakes

Doing your own brake job, if done properly can save a lot of money. But if a brake job is done improperly it could very well cost more than if a professional was paid to do the job to begin with. I've done hundreds of brake jobs in the last 25 years as a Master Auto Technician and in this article I'll outline some of the basics. I also point out some common mistakes that beginners and even pros can make when doing a brake job.

Pulsating?

If the car shakes when the brakes are applied, this means that the brake rotors are warped. Excessive side to side run-out causes the car to shake especially when stopping quickly from highway speeds. The rotors can be machined or resurfaced to make them true again as long as they are thick enough. If there is no pulsation or brake shake, brake pads can be replaced without machining them. In my experience though, if machining or replacing the rotors is not done when doing a brake job, most of the time there will be excessive squeaking noises after a very short time. I recommend taking care of the rotors by having them machined or replaced when doing the brake job.

Lifting the Car Safely

Sounds a little too basic doesn't it? I've seen many people under cars without having a jack stand in place for safety. Hydraulic jacks are great, but what if one slips or fails in some way while someones under the car working? I can't emphasize enough the importance of having the car safely raised with a jack stand in place, just in case the car falls for some reason. A jack stand under the car is very important for anytime work is to be done under the car, like for oil changes, starter replacement or any other job that could crush a person if the jack failed. I once worked with a mechanic that was changing his starter at home. His hydraulic jack had a slow leak and before he realized that the car was lowering gradually onto him, he was pinned under the car and couldn't get out from under it. The compressing of his chest only allowed him to take very shallow breaths of air, which limited his ability to cry for help! Luckily a friend stopped by, saw what was happening and raised the car for him. If not for luck this could have had a totally different outcome, his mistake could have cost him his life.

Removing Wheels, Calipers and Rotors

After removing the wheels find the caliper bolts and check to see what type of head the bolts have to determine what tools will be needed. Common fasteners will have either regular bolt heads, allen or torx. Typically there will be two bolts holding the caliper and two bolts holding the caliper bracket. Usually just the caliper can be removed if just replacing the brake pads. Suspend the caliper with an elastic cord or something similar to prevent the weight of the caliper from possibly damaging the brake hose. If the rotor is being removed to be machined or replaced most of the time the caliper bracket will need to be removed as well. Rotors will either just slide off or on older style setups will be held on by the wheel bearings. Most cars today will have rotors that slide off. The wheel bearings on this design are not serviceable, meaning they are lifetime greased and can only be replaced when they fail so they are not repacked with grease during a brake job like in the past.

Pushing the Piston

Pushing the brake caliper piston back in is required to install the new brake pads. The piston slowly extends out as the brake pads wear. This is why no brake adjustment is needed for the disc brake system, it's basically self adjusting. Big channel lock pliers can be used to compress the piston back into the caliper. There are also brake tools that can be used to push the piston back in. A big C-clamp used to be my favorite method for returning the piston back into the caliper. If working on rear disc brakes, a piston wind back tool like the KD 41540 (one of DenLors best sellers) is usually required to push and turn the pistons back in. It is recommended to open the brake bleeder screw when pushing the piston, this allows it to go back in easier and prevents possible damage to the master cylinder and/or ABS (Anti Lock Brakes) pump or valves from forcing old fluid back into the system. Closing the bleeder valve immediately after the caliper piston is pushed back in will insure that bleeding the brakes will not be necessary. If dust boots in the caliper are broken, caliper replacement is necessary. Broken boots will allow moisture and dirt to enter the surrounding area of the piston and will cause it to stick or seize. There are slides on some caliper brackets that can freeze up or seize also that can cause uneven pad wear. The slides should be taken apart and lubricated with silicone gel or disc brake grease. The slides must work freely for the brakes to work properly.

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Installing the Brake Pads and Calipers

Take note of any possible differences in left side brake pads and right side brake pads. Also there is sometimes differences in inboard and outboard brake pads. Obviously the friction part of the brake pad goes towards the rotor. My uncle a long time ago, before I ever started working on cars did a brake job on his Cadillac. I remember hearing that he placed the brake pads in backwards! He ruined his brake rotors. It seems like an impossible mistake, but when you're not familiar with what you're doing anything is possible. With aftermarket brake pads, most of the time they will come with their own noise insulators that fit onto the back of the pads. Some will have adhesive backs that will have plastic to peel off before installing, others may have tabs built into them. Note that if these are supplied, the OE (Original Equipment) pad insulators will not be re-used. After the pads are in place, be careful not to TWIST the brake caliper hoses when putting the calipers back on. It's a common mistake to twist them and the hoses can kink on turns.

Pump the Brake Pedal!

After everything is back together, it's time for a test drive. But first pump the brake pedal before putting the car in gear! The pedal will go to the floor and you may be headed for a crash if you don't. When the pedal is pumped the pistons are pushed out and the pedal becomes firm. There was an auto technician that I worked with that forgot to pump the brakes after doing a brake job. He backed out of his service bay, when he hit the the brakes the car kept going and he drove into the car that was half way up on the rack behind him. It broke the rear window of the car he was driving, luckily there was no other damage.

There are many types of brake systems but most disc brakes are basically the same. Following the steps I've listed here should help in replacing your brake pads. But if you are not completely confident, it's always a good idea to ask a friend that has some hands on experience to help guide you through your first brake job.

Brake Tools
DIY Auto Tools

Brake Pad Selection for Your Car

Many people take their brakes and in particular their brake pads for granted on a grand scale. The braking system on your car is a lot more important than any other mechanism or component as it is the brakes themselves that prevent forward momentum and in emergencies will stop you when you need to be stopped.

Brakes in themselves are many individual parts that work together to respond to the actions of the driver so that the vehicle can slow down or stop. A crucial part of these components is the brake pads and without the right ones the stopping distance of any car is severely restricted.

The brake pad itself works by creating a constant friction between the pad and the car's brake discs. These are commonly recognized as dinner plate sized metal discs that sit within the wheel housing. As the brake is applied by the driver the brake pad is forced against the brake disc and this contact creates enough friction between the two surfaces to apply a slowing momentum on the wheel. The harder the driver presses on the brake pedal and the harder the pad and the disc come together thus creating greater friction and a greater stopping force.

Due to the different specifications of cars and even heavier vehicles such as trucks there is a direct correlation to the type of pad that is required based on the type of vehicle? Brake pads are subjected to massive stresses and strains as they are constantly in use and under pressure to perform. The faster the car is driven or the heavier a vehicle is the greater the strain is on the pad.

So what are the different types of brake pads on the market?

Metallic

These are undoubtedly the most common variety of brake pads and are found on many, many vehicles. A unique blend of different metals creates metallic brake pads and within this mix you will find copper, iron, graphite and steel. After the right mix has been formulated a special bond is used to fuse these metals together to create the metallic brake pad.

Cost is a big factor for the success of these brake pads as they are produced on a mass scale and therefore a cost effective solution for the masses. Metallic brakes are a great conductor of heat and have the durability for stopping almost any type of vehicle. The downside is metallic brakes are so hard they can prematurely wear down other brake components and they are much heavier than other pads and therefore are not an ideal choice for racing or performance cars.

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Organic

Once upon a time brake pads were traditionally made from a substance called asbestos. The advantage to using asbestos was the material has the ability to absorb massive amounts of heat without breaking down or malfunctioning. With great friction there comes heat and this material appeared to be an ideal solution to a problem. However due to a serious risk to human health this material was eventually phased out and banned from production altogether. It was the dust that came of the asbestos that posed the greatest threat as when breathed in it creates breathing problems.

The material that makes up organic pads is a natural occurring product such as glass or rubber and therefore doesn't produce dangerous by products. Another beneficial material for creating organic brakes is a substance called Kevlar which like asbestos absorbs massive quantities of heat but this material doesn't create dangerous by-products as it breaks down.

The other great advantage for many of these alternative materials is the fact that they are made of softer more pliable substances and therefore they are generally much quieter than the harder materials. So what vehicle would you use organic pads on? Because of their susceptibility to wear they are ideally used on smaller cars as anything that is driven too fast or any vehicle that is too heavy will wear down these materials in no time.

Ceramic

Hold onto your wallet boys as these brake pads cost a small fortune to buy. Of course there is a substantial reason for the cost of these pads as they offer durability, great performance and a lightweight alternative to other brake pads.

Ceramic pads will be more commonly found on performance cars or racing cars as their distinctive advantages are best suited to these performance models.

I have created this article to give a more informed guidance to the sometimes difficult process of choosing the right brake pads.

In subsequent articles we will take a more in depth view of the many different cars on the road and what brake pads are best suited to them.

Hawk Brake Pads Vs EBC Brake Pads - Which is Better?

EBC and Hawk Performance are two of the biggest names in automotive brake parts. Specializing in high performance braking, these two companies are often the primary choices of automotive enthusiasts.

EBC makes brake pads, rotors and fluid for a variety of vehicles; cars, trucks, SUV's, motorcycles, ATV's, bicycles and carts. Based in the United Kingdom, EBC has been making brake equipment since 1978. EBC makes a variety of brake pads, from mild to wild.

EBC Ultimax brake pads are a semi-metallic compound offering an improved coefficient of friction over your stock brake pads while maintaining a quiet, predictable brake feel.
EBC Green Stuff brake pads are the entry level performance brake pad. Perfect for heavier rides or commuter vehicles that do double-duty autocross sessions. Good initial bite provides an excellent brake feel while keeping dust and noise to a minimum.
EBC Red Stuff brake pads are a ceramic compound that offers a high coefficient of friction for excellent initial pad bite. A great pad for spirited drivers who enjoy late braking. Due to the ceramic compound, you can expect less dust from these brake pads than from the Green Stuff pads.
EBC Yellow Stuff brake pads are not great for driving on the street, but perfect for heavy track use. The amount of friction this pad delivers is huge, upping your forward G's by as much as .2 (that's a lot!). You can expect lots of dust with this pad, so if you buy the Yellow Stuff, make sure to buy some wheel cleaner too.
EBC Green Supreme brake pads were made for trucks and SUV's that demand better stopping performance without an increase in noise or dust.

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Hawk Performance is a division of Wellman Products Group, which also owns Power Slot. While Power Slot makes all the brake rotors, Hawk makes all the brake pads. Hawk is so good at making brakes that the Sports Car Club of America has chosen Hawk to be the official brake pad of the SCCA.

Hawk HPS brake pads are the ideal street-performance replacement pad from Hawk. Great initial pad bite in a low-dust semi metallic compound makes the HPS a winner for weekend autocross warriors.
Hawk Performance Ceramic brake pads offer higher levels of friction than your stock pads while retaining the stock wear, noise and dust characteristics. Ideal for spirited street drivers who prefer little to no maintenance over higher performance.
Hawk HP Plus is the perfect autocross and track day pad. Engineered to withstand higher temperatures for longer periods of time, the HP Plus pads keep brake fade to a minimum and friction to the max.
Hawk LTS brake pads are a performance pad for heavier vehicles. Perfect for trucks and SUV's, these pads will give you great braking feel, low dust and superior fade resistance.

Hopefully this guide will help you make a better decision about your next set of performance pads. If you need even more information about auto parts and brake pads, check out these excellent resources of EBC brake pads and Hawk brake pads.

How to Find Out What Size Brake Pads You Need

Brake pads compliment disc brakes used in automotion and other applications. Brake pads are steel backing plates with friction material bound to the surface that touches the brake disc.

Two brake pads are contained in the brake caliper with their friction surfaces facing the brake disc. When the brakes are applied, the caliper squeezes the two pads together into the spinning brake disc to slow/stop the vehicle.

Although almost all road vehicles have only two brake pads per caliper, racing calipers utilise up to six pads, with varying frictional properties for the best performance. Depending on the properties of the material, disc wear rates may differ. Brake pads can be viewed as a consumable car part and need to be replaced regularly (depending on pad material which are of differing wear and performance rates).

EBC Brake Pads

Above is an example of a set of high performance disc brake pads.

There are various different types of brake pads, depending on the use and type of vehicle, from very soft and aggressive (such as racing applications) and harder, more durable and less aggressive compounds. Most vehicle manufacturers recommend a specific kind of brake pad for their vehicle, but compounds can be changed. This may depend on personal tastes, driving styles and type of use.

Care must be taken to purchase the appropriate brake pad for your needs. Selecting the wrong pad can result in excessive heat, increased wear, increased brake fade and drastically reduced performance. In cars that suffer from excessive brake fade, the problem can be reduced by purchasing better quality and more aggressive brake pads.

EBC Brakes aftermarket disc pad range is huge and supply to countries all around the world. Using top quality materials EBC develop and produce their own products in Bristol, England - a truly homegrown British company working in the right way to supply customers with the very best value brake products for their cars!

EBC Pads and discs are all ECE R-90 approved or carry ABE and are one of the only upgrade brake ranges in the world approved to new European regulations.

Ultimax Pads. If you need a quality replacement brake pad, look no further than Ultimax. Here we have a beautifully engineered brake compound that lasts well, produces minimal dust and is the perfect choice for the urban or daily driver. Why spend more if all you need is a quality replacement pad. Do not be put off by the relatively low price - these are a quality pad that you can trust.

Redstuff Pads. EBC's flagship street brake pad material for prestige and faster cars above 200BHP, EBC Redstuff sets high standards in braking performance. Redstuff has always been known for producing a low amount of dust, but the latest blend has greatly reduced the phenomenon of pad 'pick up' or disc scoring and reduced dust even further.

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Tested at Motor Industries Research Association - MIRA have proven a Redstuff equipped car stopping distance in tests by almost 50 feet from 100 MPH offering a huge 30% brake improvement!

Redstuff are a harder compound that does take longer to fully bed in to achieve its highest levels of performance - up to 1500 miles/2500 Kms use - during which time the odd 'chirp' of brake noise may be heard when starting from cold in damp and cold conditions at very low speeds. Be patient and in a very short space of time the pads warm and really start to deliver.

Yellowstuff Pads. EBC yellow compound is s true all rounder, has high friction from cold, not requiring warm up for street use.

EBC yellows are brake safety tested which means they have to work perfectly from cold at least as good or better than standard pads.

When Yellows see some heat they really show their quality. On Japanese cars built with lower friction rated pads these deliver a full grade higher stopping and on German cars these are about the only aftermarket pads that will match or beat the already good German OEM spec pads - pretty impressive!.

Greenstuff Pads are regarded as a first level brake improvement over standard and can deliver up to 15% improvement in stopping power. However Greenstuff is not a hard and long lasting pad and drivers may find Greenstuff last less than other EBC pad varieties.

It is essential to note that EBC offer THREE RANGES of Greenstuff pads, engineered for each application

Greenstuff 2000 series for small sports cars and hot hatches

Greenstuff 6000 series for entry level truck and 4x4 upgrade

Greenstuff 7000 low dust Truck and 4x4 Brakes

Appreciated by drivers of cars up to 200 BHP year 2009 sees the launch of the 9th version of EBC 2000 series Greenstuff which has once again pushed the performance barriers of organic friction materials. The latest version of Greenstuff is a deliberately softer compound to improve pedal feel on lighter cars at lower speeds. This resulted in a medium dust material with good lifetime and minimal rotor wear.

Bluestuff Pads are a high friction sport and race material that can be used for aggressive street driving and some types of track use. The material has had much success on the track with quality aftermarket calipers.The biggest advantage of EBC Bluestuff NDX is their bite from cold and progressive brake feel and the ability to bring a car to a complete stop.

It would be well worth your while to search for a quality supplier to source you with the appropriate EBC Brake Pad or disc that will perfectly suit your needs and provide you with the very best value braking experience.

Phil Seddon is an aspiring author who specializes in writing short stories and articles on common topics or interesting debates. In this article he is attempting to steer people clear of making the wrong choice in the EBC Brake Pads buying market so that they have a better understanding of what to consider when making their purchase!

EBC Brake Pads

EBC Brake Pads & Rotors - Ford Focus Braking Designed "Green" For the Environment

Brake dust and wear debris from pads is harmful to the environment.

EBC has been manufacturing discs brakes and disc brake pads since 1978.

EBC has greatly decreased levels of dangerous dust debris from its disc brake and brake pads.

Every batch of brake pads manufactured by EBC is subjected to multiple rigorous tests.

EBC's Greenstuff Sport Series brake pads come in three ranges: 2000, 6000, and 7000.

EBC's Redstuff Series brake pads are designed for vehicles with more than 200Bhp.

EBC's Yellowstuff Series brake pads are good for massive horsepower or towing really heavy cargo.

EBC's Bluestuff Series offers quality race style pads that minimize disc wear, harshness and noise.
With the quality of our air being increasingly threatened everyday and lands and oceans polluted to no end, we as a society have come together to help find new ways to slow down our destruction of Mother Earth. We continue to advance our knowledge and technologies allowing us to recycle many materials gone to waste in the past. But recycling is only part of the solution. You can't stop hazardous waste if you don't know it's being produced. With over 250 million passenger vehicles on the road today in the United States alone literally emitting thousands of tons of brake dust into the air and onto the ground, the wear and tear of brake pads is more serious than most of us realize. Harmful dust hazards resulting from brake pads wearing can include the releasing of dust particles of metals into the air and onto the ground such as copper and lead, organic and inorganic fibers and even asbestos from brake pads for specific product requirements and commercial applications. Keep in mind, not only cars and trucks use disc brakes and pads, so do certain mountain bikes, motorcycles, aircraft, and even trains which kick out wear debris every time the brake is applied.

The EBC Brake Group is a privately owned company that has been manufacturing brake discs and disc brake pads since 1978 for cars, trucks, motorcycles, A.T.V.'s, 4 wheelers, go karts and mountain bikes. Brakes that have always shared an environmentally conscious characteristic addressing these unseen pollutants. For many of their years in business, EBC has greatly decreased levels of dangerous dust debris from its disc brake and brake pads by simply doing away with toxic ingredients and chemicals commonly found in the disc brake and brake pads industry. Disc brakes and brake pads manufactured with the utmost respect and preservation of the environment as it's number one goal. That's what has made EBC Brakes a leader in disc brakes and brake pads minimizing harmful, possibly toxic brake dust debris into the atmosphere.

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Quality comes standard with all EBC brake pads and disc brake products. Every single batch of pads manufactured by EBC is subjected to multiple rigorous and uncompromising tests including, but not limited to, destructive sheer testing, density testing, compressibility testing, ultrasonic and sonar testing and even testing of friction levels to always deliver guaranteed perfection with their pads. The result- reliable, durable environmentally friendly pads and products built to last longer with less wear keeping hazardous debris released into the atmosphere to a minimal.

EBC brake pads come in an assorted range of performance depending on specific utilization and application of the brake pads. For starters, there's the Greenstuff Sport Series pads consisting of three ranges. The 2000 series for compact sport vehicles and hatchback models. The 6000 series for trucks and SUV's, and the 7000 series low dust for truck and SUV's. Since its initial launch in 1997, the Greenstuff Series has sold over three million sets of performance automotive brakes and pads all across the globe.

For those of you interested in the street scene, EBC's Redstuff Series brake pads are designed for vehicles with more than 200Bhp. Redstuff pads will reduce dust even greater while increasing breaking potential by up to 30% compared to some OEM brake systems and factory pads. Less dust from the pads equals less wear and tear on the rotors which, in the long run, can almost double the life expectancy of the rotors.

If your going to the race track with massive horsepower or just towing some really heavy cargo, EBC's Yellowstuff Series brake pads might be the ticket. These pads make for a great upgrade for truck and SUV brake systems. Yellowstuff pads will however produce similar amounts of dust as OEM style brake pads but with more stopping power.

Finally, EBC's Bluestuff Series offers quality race style pads that minimize disc wear, harshness and noise. Bluestuff pads take highway safety very seriously and after countless hours of testing, these brakes are some of the best offered on the market today. Not to mention, an inexpensive way to upgrade vehicle performance.

No matter what kind of particular item(s) you might want for your Focus, check out www.focusfreaks.com/ to find a great selection on EBC brakes, pads and all sorts of cool performance parts and aftermarket products for Ford Focus.

Quality performance parts and upgrade accessories for Ford Focus (all models and years including SVT, ZX3, and ZX5) along with knowledgeable and personalized service for each and every customer, every visit. Upgrading your Ford Focus shouldn't be difficult and we strive to find more convenient and less expensive ways to help you do just that. We are constantly working to offer you some of the best products available for Ford Focus to upgrade performance and appearance, both interior and exterior and especially under the hood. Whether you are looking to simply get more gas mileage out of your Focus or something more intense such as an entire body kit or engine rebuild, it's quite possible we have exactly what you're looking for, at a competitive price. Plus we are adding more products daily as we find them. So make sure to check back with us from time to time. We also know that people are busy these days and time is one of those things difficult to find. That is why we are always trying to improve our customers time management with organized categories and easy to find parts and applications. We're always opened to suggestions! Thanks for reading up on us, Eric K.

[http://www.focusfreaks.com]

How to Change Your Brake Pads and Rotors

Do-it-yourself and save money! Save money by doing-it-yourself. No matter how you say it, it can really add up. I like the phrase so much that I think I'll make it my new mantra. Maybe you should too. I've literally saved thousands of dollars by doing my own auto repairs. One of the coolest DIY projects you can do is performing your own brake job.

This job is relatively simple when compared to other repairs but there are quite a few steps involved and they should be followed carefully. We're going to break it down into 3 parts; (1) removing the brake pads, (1a) removing and replacing the rotors (brake discs), and (2) reinstalling the brake pads. If you're just replacing your brake pads, skip 1a and jump to part 2 after completing part 1.

I should mention that we're discussing disc brakes only. Disc brakes will either be found on the front wheels only or both front and rear. Some vehicles have drum brakes on the rear wheels and the procedure for replacing them is slightly different. Are you ready? OK, let's get started.

Parts list

Brake Pads

Brake rotors [a.k.a. discs] (if applicable)

Brake rotor hold-down bolts (if applicable)

Caliper guide bolts (replace if bad)

Caliper guide bold bushings

Brake pad sensor wires(if applicable)

Brake parts cleaner

Anti-squeal compound

Brake parts grease

Anti-seize compound

Tools list

Breaker bar

Ratchet & Sockets (SAE and Metric)

Allen bits for ratchet

Various screw drivers

Wire cleaning brush

Caliper piston tool/medium C-clamp

Shop rags

Bungee cord

Nitrile gloves

Rubber mallet

Torque wrench

Part 1

Changing the brake pads

First, decide if your going to replace the pads at all four wheels or just two. You'll replace the pads in pairs, front wheels or rear wheels. For a complete job and best results, do all 4 wheels. If your budget and/or time constraints won't allow it, do front or rear. The front wheel brake calipers, pads, and rotors are larger than those on the rear and cost a little more. The procedures for both are basically the same.

By determining whether the brake job is for two wheels or four will also determine whether you'll jack the front, rear, or both ends of the vehicle. If you have an impact gun to remove the lug nuts from the wheels, you can proceed with the jacking. If you have to remove the lug nuts using a crowbar, you should loosen them just a little (breaking the seize) while the wheels are on the ground. Once the wheels are in the air, they may turn freely, which will make removing the lug nuts very difficult, if not impossible. Safely jack the vehicle and then support it on jack stands. Never perform work while a vehicle is only supported by a jack. Jacks fail and you may be putting your life in danger.

Once a wheel is removed, remove the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) by prying it and sliding it out with a large screwdriver. Next, let's remove the brake caliper. For the front wheels, it may be necessary to turn the steering completely either to the right or to the left to access the caliper guide bolts. Typically, they are on the back side of the caliper. The caliper guide bolts may have dust caps. These will be made of rubber or plastic. Use a small screwdriver to pry them out. Once the caps are removed, the bolt heads will be exposed.

Using your ratchet and the appropriate socket or Allen bit, remove the 2 bolts. Grasp the caliper and pull it away from the rotor. You may need to use a large screwdriver to pry it loose. Remove the two brake pads from the caliper, prying if necessary. One brake pad may be attached to the caliper piston by a clip. Loosen the clip and the pad will fall out. If your vehicle is equipped with brake pad sensor wires, carefully remove the wire from the pad. The sensor wire will be on one pad of either the right or left wheel. Make note of which wheel has the wire.

Now, its time to re-compress the caliper piston. As brake pads wear, they cause the piston to push further and further out of the caliper. The piston must be pushed back in so that you can fit the new, thicker brake pad in place. You can use one of the old pads and a piston compression tool or c-clamp to push it back in. Simply place the old pad on top of the piston and tighten the tool or c-clamp to press it back in place.

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Use your bungee cord to hang the heavy caliper from the spring or suspension carrier as you get ready to install the new pads. Never calipers to hang by their brake lines as they are heavy and will damage the line. Place a few rags under the parts and spray brake parts cleaner liberally to the caliper, bolts, bracket, etc. to thoroughly clean everything. You may need to use your wire cleaning brush as well.

Part 1a

Removing the brake rotor (disc)

If you're replacing your brake rotors as well, follow this procedure. Now that the caliper is removed, its time to remove the brake rotor. First, you need to remove the caliper bracket. This is what the caliper was resting on and is also where you previously unscrewed the caliper guide bolts. The bracket is connected via two bolts. You need to use your breaker bar and the appropriate socket to remove it.

Once the bracket is remove, its time to remove the brake rotor (disc). The rotor is held in place by either one or two hold down bolts. These bolts will be comparatively smaller than the others and may require the use of your Allen wrench. Support the brake rotor as you loosen the bolts. Remove the bolts. If the rotor does not come off, you may need to use a rubber mallet and hammer it from the back to loosen it. Corrosion between the rotor and wheel hub may have caused it to seize.

Reinstalling the brake rotor

You'll reinstall the rotor in the reverse order. To prevent the rotor from seizing to the wheel hub, apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the wheel hub before putting the brake rotor back on. I would also put a little anti-seize compound on the threads of the rotor hold-down bolt. Tighten all bolts using your torque wrench set at the appropriate setting.

Apply a thin layer of anti-seize compound to the threads of the caliper bracket bolts as well. Be careful not to get any on the surface of the rotor. Following these steps will make your next brake rotor change a breeze.

Part 2

Installing new brake pads

Note: Some anti-squeal compound type require curing for at least six hours before installing the pads on the vehicle. Read the instructions on the product to determine whether you should apply it to the back of the new pads on the night before.

First, apply the anti-squeal compound to the back of the pads, not to the surface that comes in contact with the rotors. Remove the bungee cord and support the caliper. Next, carefully install the pads into the brake caliper. The two pads should differ in appearance and fit so you shouldn't get confused as to which fits where. If your vehicle is equipped with brake pad sensor wires, carefully install the wire in the pad.

Install the caliper/pad assembly over the top of the brake rotor. Be sure to seat the brake pads into the notches of the caliper bracket. Align the holes in the caliper with the holes in the caliper bracket. Apply a thin layer of brake parts grease to the caliper guide bolts and slide them in. Tighten the bolts using your torque wrench at the appropriate setting. You can find the bolt torque settings in your service manual, owner's manual, and of course the internet. Your local auto parts store will be helpful as well. Reinstall the caliper guide bolt caps to keep the brake dust out.

Reinstall the anti-rattle clip (if applicable) using your large screwdriver. This will take a little patience and for me, this one step took the most time. Persevere.

Once you've completed pad change, you can reinstall each wheel.

Test drive

The next step is to break the brake pads in. This procedure is also called "bedding" the brakes. You can find lots of information about this procedure on the internet. Basically, it involves making a series of stops from 55 mph while applying more brake pedal pressure with each successive stop. Five to ten stops is usually all that is necessary.

Performing your own brake job is not difficult and the savings can be huge! Not to mention the confidence boost you'll get. I know you can do it. I have confidence in your abilities. Tell those service managers "I'll handle it", next time they try to separate you from your cash. I sure did and you will too!

To get more help and to save money on automotive repairs, download my free copy of The Garage Insider:  The Top 10 things your mechanic doesn't want you to know that can Literally save you Thousand$!

Courtney Evans is the Publisher of www.GreaseMonkeyJunkie.com, the premier weekly newsletter for the DIY Mechanic.

Tougher penalties credited for fewer casualties among young male drivers

A new study out of Western University (London, Canada) has found a significant decline in speeding-related fatalities and injuries among young men in Ontario since the province's tough extreme speeding and aggressive driving laws were introduced in 2007. The study found a sustained reduction of about 58 speeding-related injuries and fatalities a month among males aged 16-24. That means about 700 fewer young men have been injured or killed in speeding-related crashes yearly since the law was passed.

The study led by Evelyn Vingilis, PhD, a professor in Family Medicine, and Epidemiology and Biostatistics at Western's Schulich School of Medicine & Dentistry, evaluated the deterrent impact of Ontario's Street Racers, Stunt, and Aggressive Drivers Legislation (Bill 203) and found it is making a difference, not only in the number of convictions but also in reducing the number of collisions.

Under the law, drivers caught going 50 kph over the speed limit or engaging in improper actions that constitute a driving stunt, contest, or race can immediately have their licenses suspended and their vehicles impounded for seven days. Upon conviction, they also face a fine of $2,000-$10,000, license suspension for up to two years or six demerit points, and the possibility of up to six months in jail. The penalties get even more severe with a second conviction.

"First of all we looked at males and females, and then we looked at younger and older individuals because we know from my earlier research, that street racing and extreme speeding is an activity that typically younger males are more likely to engage in," said Vingilis. "What we found was a substantial reduction in the number of convictions for extreme speeding for males, and no change for females because they were pretty low any way. And importantly, we found a significant decrease in the number of motor vehicle casualties of males 16 to 24 -quite a significant reduction."

Vingilis says the study's findings support deterrence theory to the effect that certain, swift and severe sanctions can deter risky driving behavior.

The research, conducted in collaboration with the Ministry of Transportation of Ontario (MTO), looked at data from January 1, 2002 to December 31, 2011. The law came into effect September 30, 2007, enabling the researchers to compare the data before and after implementation. From the time the new law came into force to the end of 2011, more than 24,000 drivers' licenses were suspended for violating the new street racing legislation, nearly 8,500 of them in the first year alone.

For the 16 to 24 year old male drivers, 1.21% of licensed drivers had their licenses suspended, along with .37 per cent of mature males (aged 25-64). That contrasted with .21 per cent for 16-24 year old female drivers and .07 per cent for 25-64 year old women.

Journal References:

Aizhan Meirambayeva, Evelyn Vingilis, A. Ian McLeod, Yoassry Elzohairy, Jinkun Xiao, Guangyong Zou, Yuanhao Lai. Road safety impact of Ontario street racing and stunt driving law. Accident Analysis & Prevention, 2014; 71: 72 DOI: 10.1016/j.aap.2014.05.009 Aizhan Meirambayeva, Evelyn Vingilis, Guangyong Zou, Yoassry Elzohairy, A. Ian McLeod, Jinkun Xiao. Evaluation of Deterrent Impact of Ontario's Street Racing and Stunt Driving Law on Extreme Speeding Convictions. Traffic Injury Prevention, 2014; 140528080958001 DOI: 10.1080/15389588.2014.890721

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Toward smarter underwater drones

The news was not good. An underwater drone armed with the best technology on the planet had descended repeatedly to the bottom of the Indian Ocean, trying to find Malaysia Airlines Flight 370. Time after time, it turned up nothing.

If Nina Mahmoudian has her way, the next generation of autonomous underwater vehicles (AUVs) will have a much better chance of getting it right.

AUVs like the one that hunted for Flight 370 are laden with advanced technology, but they have their shortcomings. During a search, they travel in a predetermined pattern, retrieving reams of information and returning it to the surface, where it can be analyzed, says Mahmoudian, a researcher at Michigan Technological University. Thus, they can spend a lot of time gathering data on things that are not, for example, a missing airplane.

"You need an autonomous vehicle that can go deep and explore an area with a sense of what it is looking for," she said. "We want to make a smarter vehicle, one that can search on its own and make decisions on its own."

Mahmoudian is building four of those smarter AUVs, each a little bigger than a loaf of French bread. When they are complete, she will give them something new: better, more powerful brains. That involves revamping their software so they "know" what they are looking for. "AUVs like these could be so much more useful for finding small, hazardous objects like mines, or for detecting problems with cables and pipelines," she said.

Mahmoudian's AUVs, named ROUGHIEs (for Research Oriented Underwater Gliders for Hands-on Investigative Engineering) will be underwater gliders. Powered only by batteries, they will "fly" slowly through the water simply by adjusting their buoyancy and weight. This will make them safer and more reliable in shallow waters, where a propeller could become tangled in vegetation or injure a person.

That's important, because the ROUGHIEs will not be exploring the middle of the ocean; they are designed for use near the water's edge, which offers a special challenge.

"They come up on the coast, where there's lots of noise, and we want ours to be able to talk with each other, and perhaps to a mother ship, in any environment," she said. "That means they'll have to operate in an area with lots of boats, swimmers and the like."

Her ROUGHIEs offer additional advantages. They will be modular, allowing users to swap out different components depending on what tasks the drones undertake. And they will cost a fraction of the price of a commercial model to build. That makes them ideal for the trial-and-error process inherent in scientific research.

Underwater gliders and other types of AUVs already play an important role in addressing some of today's most pressing environmental, safety and biological challenges. Their uses range from detecting dangerous contaminants, like oil spills, to retrieving evidence of climate change. By arming them with smarter software, they would become even better at doing their jobs, including searching an ocean's depths.

"We need solutions for these cases," Mahmoudian said. "The disappearance of the Malaysian aircraft is a clear example of why we must do this."

The Office of Naval Research is supporting Mahmoudian's effort with a $125,000 grant to build the four low-cost underwater gliders. Members of her team are Byrel Mitchell and Saeedeh Fard, both PhD students in mechanical engineering-engineering mechanics; mechanical engineering undergraduates Eric Wilkening and Brian Page; and Anthony Pinar, PhD student in electrical engineering. Mahmoudian is an assistant professor in Michigan Tech's Department of Mechanical Engineering-Engineering Mechanics.

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Unassuming rampant polluters on two wheels: Small mopeds cause more air pollution than cars

They are small, low in consumption and city-friendly but they are by no means ecologically harmless. Mopeds with two-stroke engines are at the top of the list of air polluters in some towns, mainly in Asia, Africa and southern Europe. This despite the fact that they account for only a fraction of total traffic volume. The suspicion that the two-wheelers, that are spared strict emission requirements, are the main contributors to air pollution in many cities has been around for a few years. Now an international research team headed up by the Paul Scherrer Institute has confirmed this suspicion with innovative measurement techniques.

The scientists used a smog chamber developed at PSI to measure the emission of organic aerosols and aromatic hydrocarbons from mopeds in the laboratory and in standard driving cycles. Organic aerosols are small particles which are suspended in air. They account for a major share of fine particles from traffic. By contrast, after being emitted as gaseous substances aromatic hydrocarbons (arenes) can be converted through chemical reactions in the atmosphere in part into secondary organic aerosols and, by extension, into fine particles. In fact, these secondary organic aerosols often account for the main proportion of fine particles. In their original gaseous form some arenes are harmful, too. Benzene, for instance, which is added to petrol is carcinogenic.

The new study shows that during the conversion of exhaust gas from two-stroke mopeds other worrying products are formed. Using chemical analyses the scientists discovered that during the conversion of arenes from moped exhaust gases into aerosols, harmful reactive oxygen species are also formed which can reach the lungs.

High level of emissions even when not moving

Both when standing still and in motion mopeds with two-stroke engines emit amounts of arenes which are several orders of magnitude higher than the limit values admissible in Europe and the USA. According to the study authors, waiting behind a two-stroke moped in traffic may, therefore, constitute a considerable health risk.

The scientists list a number of possible reasons for these elevated emissions. Basically, these are old, well-known problems which are typical for two-stroke engines like incomplete combustion, the high ratio of fuel to air in the fuel mixture or the need to add the lubricating oil directly to the fuel. Problems of this kind only occur to a minor degree if at all with four-stroke engines.

Small fleet with a big impact

The new study shows that the conventional view that cars and trucks account for the lion's share of fine particles pollution from traffic will have to be revised, at least for specific regions. The researchers have calculated that in the Thai capital Bangkok two-stroke mopeds generate as much as 60 percent of emissions of primary organic aerosols. These two-wheelers only account for 10 percent of fuel consumption by traffic in the city. The calculations are based on the average emission factor of the European mopeds examined in the study. Hence, it probably underestimated the actual emissions of the mopeds circulating in Bangkok.

Ban with tangible results

Field measurements in China confirm the image of these rampant polluters on two wheels. In the city of Guangzhou the concentrations of arenes in the air fell by more than 80 percent in 2005 after a ban on two-stroke mopeds. Just 60 kilometres away in the city of Dongguan with its comparatively strict traffic restrictions, higher aromatic concentrations are measured today than in Guangzhou. The study authors report that in southern European towns the concentration of specific air contaminants could be considerably reduced if two-stroke mopeds were gradually withdrawn from circulation. The EU emission standard for two-stroke mopeds (Euro 2), which is also valid in Switzerland, dates back to 2002. For cars there are now far stricter requirements in Euro 5. From 2017 the EU will, therefore, introduce lower emission limits for small mopeds, too. Furthermore, more environmentally compatible alternatives are already available on the market like electrically driven mopeds which don't cause any noise pollution either. Mopeds with four-stroke engines, although not completely harmless, would be better than two-strokers.

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Traffic control: New tool may help prioritize trains

A new tool could put a delayed train back on schedule. The Traffic Control Centre in Stavanger in Norway is currently testing the tool that will provide an optimum solution in just a few seconds.

Everyone has heard of air traffic controllers -- who sit glued to their screens, making sure that our planes take off and land in the right order. The same applies to trains. These have traffic controllers too, sitting in control rooms in front of huge screens, directing train traffic.

Everyone has their own section and region

There are Traffic Control Centres in Oslo, Trondheim, Drammen, Stavanger, Bergen, Hamar, Narvik and Kristiansand, each one controlling its own region. "Each centre is responsible for traffic in its own region, while individual traffic controllers look after parts of the traffic within that region," explains Arnt Gunnar Lium at SINTEF. "For example, one controller might be looking after trains on the Gj?vik Line, or be responsible for trains running from Drammen to Oslo."

How to handle delays

Traffic controllers follow a fixed timetable that tells them exactly where every train should be and when it should move. The challenge faced by traffic controllers every day is what to do when delays cause the plan to be abandoned. "These days, traffic controllers have fixed rules of prioritisation, the main principle of which is to prioritise trains that are on time -- as well as assessing the overall situation," says Lium. "But the decision a traffic controller makes in one place will also affect traffic somewhere else. So the challenge facing these teams of traffic controllers is how to work together effectively, despite the fact that each centre controls its own region, and each controller at a given centre directs traffic on their own section."

First of its kind -- tested in the field

A group of SINTEF researchers involved in optimisation have developed methods and software designed to prioritise trains in real time. This has resulted in an optimisation tool that has been tested at the Traffic Control Centre in Stavanger. Real-time prioritisation is an extremely difficult task, both in theory and in practice, since many decisions must be made within a short period of time. Should Train A or Train B be sent out first? Should Train C use Platform 1 or Platform 2? Should Train A wait for delayed Train B or not?

"With two or three trains, that isn't too difficult, but when the number of trains increases, there can easily be several billion different solutions, since one decision affects many others," says Carlo Mannino at SINTEF ICT.

By using new mathematical optimisation theories, the researchers have managed to develop a new method that finds the optimum solution in just a few seconds. The tool is the first of its kind in the world -- and has been tested in real operational situations.

No better solutions

Arnt Gunnar Lium shows a map on his screen, which looks like a huge network of spiders' webs. It has red, blue and black lines, and marked stations such as Moi and Stavanger. While the black sections indicate the planned train routes, the red sections show whether something has happened that means that a train is behind or ahead of schedule. If all the trains are on time, obviously it follows the original plan. But if something happens, the new tool shows the optimum solution for how trains should proceed. "You see these blue sections here," says Lium. "These are proposed solutions, and these are in real time. There are no better solutions based on the targets."

Reduce delays

The researchers believe that the new tool could reduce delays and result in considerable improvements in punctuality. "The positive thing about a tool like this is that, with relatively cheap research and small investments, it may be possible to reduce the number of cancellations and delays, while making even better use of extremely expensive infrastructure than we do now."

"We're onto something here" Traffic controller ?yvind Bernhard-Melin at the Traffic Control Centre in Stavanger says that he started using the tool in April as a means of supporting his decisions, and has noticed a distinct benefit in some cases. The tests are being carried out on a section of several dozen kilometres between Stavanger and Sira. The image on the browser in front of the traffic controller updates every 15 seconds. As soon as a delay occurs, new sections and proposals are drawn into the image.

"On some days there are no changes," says Meling. "We had eight days in April when every train ran on time. But then we have other days when there are loads of delays. The tool has still not been fully developed, but when it is finished we definitely believe that we will be onto something here," he says.

The traffic controllers will continue with their testing throughout the year, and will provide SINTEF with valuable input which can be used to continue developing the tool.

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3 Things You Need To Learn About The Mercedes AMG Line

What do you get when you combine high performance and a Mercedes, the Mercedes AMG. The Mercedes does not just cater to giving us luxurious cars but also an assortment of high performance vehicles. From sedans to coupes, roadsters to convertibles and SUVs to wagons, the Mercedes AMG delivers.

Now you might just think that they just make it faster. Yes, they do make it faster... and then some more. High performance does not just mean making any car go fast, it means reaching the optimum output the car can achieve. Think about sprinting, you can run bare foot in any clothing and still be fast, but think about putting the proper running shoes and the right clothes when you make your run, with the right gear you can and will go faster. That's how the AMG line of Mercedes works; they don't just make your car go faster, they make them go faster, better.

Now let's go on to the things that I haven't discussed yet.

• The AMG wasn't originally part of Mercedes' production line.

"What?" --- That was the same reaction I had when I learned about it. Apparently, the AMG were an independent engineering group that specialized in Mercedes Benz. How? Two former engineers from Mercedes created AMG. And Mercedes recognizing their work had partnered up with them to create the AMG line, Mercedes' high performance line. (It's just like how the Shelby is to a Ford, Shelby specializes in Ford Mustangs.)

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• The AMG has a different naming system compared to the Mercedes.

What's so different about it? A typical Mercedes would have three numbers, for example their C-Class coupes have the C250 and the C350 coupe. The AMG counterpart for the C-Class would only have two numbers: C63 AMG coupe. It's an easier way of distinguishing a Mercedes AMG from other brands because others have ridiculously long car names or just very hard to pronounce. (Case in point: Koenigsegg, McLaren MP4-12C and many more) See? Their names are as efficient as the cars they make!

• The AMG "Black Series"

No, it's not about the color. As much as a black on black color scheme sounds nice, the Black Series is not concerned about the color. Weight reduction, stabilized suspensions, bucket seats and everything else that would help it go further faster and better, the Black Series have it. Although it is only limited to their two-door line, it makes the AMG one step ahead of the competition.

Now, stop daydreaming about it and it's now time to get in one. The Mercedes AMG, the exquisiteness of the Mercedes and the expertise of the AMG would give you a very solid driving experience. Getting you ahead of the rest in one brand.

Here's a great deal on a 2002 Mercedes-Benz S-Class! This vehicle glistens in the crowded performance sedan segment! Mercedes-Benz prioritized fit and finish as evidenced by: automatic dimming door mirrors, power moon roof, and seat memory. It features an automatic transmission, rear-wheel drive, and a powerful 12 cylinder engine. Is there anything I missed on this? Or anything else you want to know about the AMG line that I did not get to touch on? Let me know on the comments below. Take care and drive safely, Ciao!